The folks over at Henry T’s have been in the burger business for 18 years.
As a sports bar, a good quarter of its overall sales go to the American favorite, which typically plays second fiddle to the restaurant’s chicken wings.
But these days, the burger is having a bit of a renaissance, if you will — just in time for grilling season.
Co-owner Sean Gerrity says that interest started picking up six months ago when customers begin asking about more than just the specials when visiting the restaurant, 3520 W. Sixth St.
“They not only want a larger burger, but they also are looking for a better quality burger, too,” Gerrity says. “Consumers are just more ... concerned and more aware of what it is they’re being served. And so they’re looking for something out-of-the-ordinary.”
So, what’s a restaurateur to do but comply? First Gerrity introduced a larger burger, then Henry T’s burgers went from 100 percent beef to 100 percent Angus beef. And in June he will go even further for his customers.
“We’re actually adapting to the market,” Gerrity says. “And we’re actually going to start running another gourmet burger line, that we’re going to start in about a month. ... That’s the nature of the market right now, is that people are interested in them.”
No kidding. Bigger, better burgers are all over the place. Gourmet burger restaurants are popping up locally, from The Burger Stand at Dempsey’s, 623 Vt., and Local Burger at 714 Vt. to Blanc Burgers and Bottles in Kansas City. Mid-range restaurants are in the mix, too, with Five Guys Burgers and Fries, 2040 31st St., adding a restaurant in Lawrence, and Kansas City-based Applebee’s introducing “Realburgers.” And for the economy set, fast-food competitors Hardee’s and Burger King have blasted the airwaves with commercials for new large-scale burgers, the Western Bacon Thickburger (sold by “Top Chef’s” Padma Lakshmi) and the Steakhouse XT Burger.
Old meets new
So, why the renewed interest in the something that has been a restaurant staple for what seems like eternity? Gerrity guesses food celebrities like Burger King cover girl Lakshmi and the growing popularity of food shows have quite a bit to do with it.
“I’d bet $100 on that,” Gerrity says, laughing. “Absolutely. And it’s on every Web site, too.”
Josh Mochel, owner of Jo Shmo’s, 724 Mass., agrees, but hints that food television only mimics what’s really going on. He says that if one looks back years rather than months, the burger’s renaissance is a long time coming.
“Honestly, I think it has to do with social things, not with the actual product itself. In the late ’90s, early 2000s, you saw a huge (surge) of upscale restaurants around the country. Everybody had a lot of money, and they didn’t want a four-course meal necessarily or a two-hour dinner,” Mochel says. “You’d have great chefs who would do four- and five-star dining opening up a smaller place, doing burgers, where you can have the same kind of love, only with a hamburger, you know? It’s kind of the old-meets-new type deal.”
Renaissance art, er, food
So, what kind of artistic new offerings are showing up on the menus of restaurants that are not hamburger joints but rather joints that just happen to have hamburgers?
Gerrity says Henry T’s new line of burgers will be all over the culinary map.
“They’re going to be a little different,” he says. “They’re going to be like Kobe burgers and salmon burgers and tuna burgers, and we’re going to do a buffalo burger too.”
Those will be on top of the restaurant’s eight “styles” of burgers, where folks can play gourmet chef from a corner booth. The styles include Burgundy style (onions, mushrooms, Burgundy wine sauce and provolone), a pepperjack and bacon style (pepperjack cheese and bacon with a side of jalapeño mayo) and the restaurant’s most popular: the “Fat Tuesday” (a burger dipped in wing sauce and topped with cheddar and bacon). He expects to go through 2,500 burgers of all styles this week during the restaurant’s 18th anniversary celebration, which means two-for-one burgers.
Over at Jo Shmo’s, Mochel has no current plans to change his burgers. He says that while he admires the hamburger joints he’s been in during his time living in New York and Chicago, his restaurant isn’t meant to be a joint nor a gourmet burger destination.
“We’re a sports bar where you can always get a quality hamburger, a hamburger that stands the test of time,” Mochel says. “There’s no frills about it. It’s not four-star burgers, it’s not McDonald’s, it’s just one of those hamburgers that you can make in your backyard, except you get all the great things that go along with Jo Shmo’s.”
Up the street, Rick Martin, executive chef at Free State Brewery, 636 Mass., says the restaurant’s burger has always been a big seller, in the summer months especially. He welcomes the burger’s new found celebrity status with an open griddle.
“It’s one of our highest-selling items, for sure. It’s Americana,” Martin says. “I think we’re in love with the burger.”
Gourmet inspiration
Impress your guests at your next grill-out with some whiz-bang burger topping ideas from the Texas Beef Council:
The Brie Burger: Top each patty with a slice of brie or herbed brie cheese, Granny Smith apple (sliced into rings, onion-style) and spicy mustard.
The Caesar Burger: Whip up Caesar dressing with a package mix. Top each patty with a slice of avocado and the Caesar dressing, then serve on sourdough bread.
The Brew Burger: Two minutes before patties are finished grilling, brush liberally with a mix of equal parts steak sauce and beer. Top with Swiss cheese and slice of sweet onion (such as vidalia).
The Bruschetta Burger: Top patties with tomatoes, chopped fresh basil and mozzarella cheese; serve on toasted French garlic bread.
Fancy burger recipes to try at home




Comments
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LarryNative (anonymous) says…
Star burger at Pach is very good. It was my favorite until Dempsey's opened. Dempsey's burgers are a tenderloin, ribeye and strip blend.
I hope Henry T's does well with the new concept. It might be a tough sell since the only Kobe their current clientel knows about is Kobe Bryant.
getserious (anonymous) says…
Jefferson's has been serving a "big" burger, in a variety of ways for years. They win best burger every year. How pitiful of the LJW to not even mention them.
trinity (anonymous) says…
lol, bronze...
geesh, these burgs are getting too fancy for me. give me a good ol' burger cooked on my own grill, slap a piece of good american cheese or some cheddar on it, tomato slice&some mayo and i'm happy! :) and if i have to have an "out" burger-it's culver's for me.
side note....the article mentioned burger king's "steakhouse xt" or whatever burger. the commercials are nearly as annoying as the sonic guys-but not quite. BUT-next time one of the burger king commercials comes on, pay attention to the FLOOR as much as possible; it is absolutely FILTHY!!! noticed that a few days ago...wow. what a fine endorsement of an eating establishment! it IS noticeably dirty.
supercowbellninja (anonymous) says…
Dempsey's makes an awesome burger - best place in town!
guesswho (anonymous) says…
I tried Dempsey's a couple of times; IMO not worth the hype; it was a bit dry (cooked done, not medium) - the bun was too buttery for me (good, but too rich). The sweet potato fries were killer, though.
LarryNative (anonymous) says…
Jefferson's burger is inediblel.
Guesswho, I agree on the Dempsey's inconsistency on cooking temp but I have never had a dry one. There is way to much fat in the meat to be cooked out unless it was a piece of charcoal. The bun is the bet part. There is no such thing as too much butter! That's like saying there is too much bacon or sausage on anything.
jonas_opines (anonymous) says…
my burgers>all
just sayin'
rgreene (Ryan Greene) says…
Aloha Burger at Jefferson's
KC Masterpiece Burger at Henry T's
'Nuff said.
denak (anonymous) says…
This is an interesting coincidence. I have lived in this town for 13 years and, until last week, had never gone to Henry T's. I went because a friend of mine was raving about their hamburgers and she wanted one so we went and I have to admit it was really good steak burger.
Dena
eotw33 (anonymous) says…
any burger is a good burger, some are just waaaaay better
KatWrangler (anonymous) says…
Oh why oh why did I read this. Now I want a burger! LOL With fries!
deskboy04 (anonymous) says…
Johnny's has a great burger!
BigPrune (anonymous) says…
I prefer Burger King's Angry Whopper flame-broiled hamburger topped with Angry Onions, jalapenos, pepper jack cheese and Angry Sauce, with a side of Tucks.
tkofford (anonymous) says…
The bacon cheeseburger (single or double) at Kroeger's Country Store in Lecompton is still my favorite burger in the area. It's only about a 10-15 minute drive from Lawrence.
Their burgers are not real fancy, but boy are they good! They only use fresh ground chuck and have been cooking on that grill out there for over 25 years.
If you've never been out there for a burger, I'd highly recommend it!
Now I'm really hungry.
heyheymama (anonymous) says…
Its a hamburger people...i want some real news.
bangaranggerg (anonymous) says…
Simon Bates' Burger Stand @ Dempsey's is apparently destroying all the competition so bad other bars have to offer a better product to try and keep up. This is great news for burger lovers like me. It's always great business step their game up because of competition, because the consumer wins.
KatWrangler (anonymous) says…
heyheymama (Anonymous) says…
Its a hamburger people…i want some real news.
________________
Then go find another story to read. We are hungry here! LOL
beatle919 (Marcy McGuffie) says…
I still haven't got the husband to take me to Dempsey's. Sounds so good!
For a classic, good old fashioned greasy burger - Slow Ride makes a mean one.
BigPrune: My husband claims the Angry Whopper isn't that angry. He expected more of a bite. I wouldn't know - I find Burger King stank! Well, except for their tacos...which are super stank and kinda tasty at the same time. BK has no business making tacos - but, I have a love/hate relationship with that nastiness.
Burton (anonymous) says…
The Hamburglar just looked up Lawrence in Google Maps.
jumpin_catfish (anonymous) says…
Jefferson's monster bacon cheese burger with onion rings and a cold beer.