Burger renaissance: Lawrence restaurants reinvent American classic

Henry T’s will expand its burger menu in upcoming months to satisfy customer cravings for gourmet sandwiches. The restaurant, 3520 W. Sixth St., is part of a “burger renaissance” in Lawrence and Kansas City as new venues serve the American classic.

The folks over at Henry T’s have been in the burger business for 18 years.

As a sports bar, a good quarter of its overall sales go to the American favorite, which typically plays second fiddle to the restaurant’s chicken wings.

But these days, the burger is having a bit of a renaissance, if you will — just in time for grilling season.

Co-owner Sean Gerrity says that interest started picking up six months ago when customers begin asking about more than just the specials when visiting the restaurant, 3520 W. Sixth St.

“They not only want a larger burger, but they also are looking for a better quality burger, too,” Gerrity says. “Consumers are just more … concerned and more aware of what it is they’re being served. And so they’re looking for something out-of-the-ordinary.”

So, what’s a restaurateur to do but comply? First Gerrity introduced a larger burger, then Henry T’s burgers went from 100 percent beef to 100 percent Angus beef. And in June he will go even further for his customers.

“We’re actually adapting to the market,” Gerrity says. “And we’re actually going to start running another gourmet burger line, that we’re going to start in about a month. … That’s the nature of the market right now, is that people are interested in them.”

No kidding. Bigger, better burgers are all over the place. Gourmet burger restaurants are popping up locally, from The Burger Stand at Dempsey’s, 623 Vt., and Local Burger at 714 Vt. to Blanc Burgers and Bottles in Kansas City. Mid-range restaurants are in the mix, too, with Five Guys Burgers and Fries, 2040 31st St., adding a restaurant in Lawrence, and Kansas City-based Applebee’s introducing “Realburgers.” And for the economy set, fast-food competitors Hardee’s and Burger King have blasted the airwaves with commercials for new large-scale burgers, the Western Bacon Thickburger (sold by “Top Chef’s” Padma Lakshmi) and the Steakhouse XT Burger.

Old meets new

So, why the renewed interest in the something that has been a restaurant staple for what seems like eternity? Gerrity guesses food celebrities like Burger King cover girl Lakshmi and the growing popularity of food shows have quite a bit to do with it.

“I’d bet $100 on that,” Gerrity says, laughing. “Absolutely. And it’s on every Web site, too.”

Josh Mochel, owner of Jo Shmo’s, 724 Mass., agrees, but hints that food television only mimics what’s really going on. He says that if one looks back years rather than months, the burger’s renaissance is a long time coming.

“Honestly, I think it has to do with social things, not with the actual product itself. In the late ’90s, early 2000s, you saw a huge (surge) of upscale restaurants around the country. Everybody had a lot of money, and they didn’t want a four-course meal necessarily or a two-hour dinner,” Mochel says. “You’d have great chefs who would do four- and five-star dining opening up a smaller place, doing burgers, where you can have the same kind of love, only with a hamburger, you know? It’s kind of the old-meets-new type deal.”

Renaissance art, er, food

So, what kind of artistic new offerings are showing up on the menus of restaurants that are not hamburger joints but rather joints that just happen to have hamburgers?

Gerrity says Henry T’s new line of burgers will be all over the culinary map.

“They’re going to be a little different,” he says. “They’re going to be like Kobe burgers and salmon burgers and tuna burgers, and we’re going to do a buffalo burger too.”

Those will be on top of the restaurant’s eight “styles” of burgers, where folks can play gourmet chef from a corner booth. The styles include Burgundy style (onions, mushrooms, Burgundy wine sauce and provolone), a pepperjack and bacon style (pepperjack cheese and bacon with a side of jalapeño mayo) and the restaurant’s most popular: the “Fat Tuesday” (a burger dipped in wing sauce and topped with cheddar and bacon). He expects to go through 2,500 burgers of all styles this week during the restaurant’s 18th anniversary celebration, which means two-for-one burgers.

Over at Jo Shmo’s, Mochel has no current plans to change his burgers. He says that while he admires the hamburger joints he’s been in during his time living in New York and Chicago, his restaurant isn’t meant to be a joint nor a gourmet burger destination.

“We’re a sports bar where you can always get a quality hamburger, a hamburger that stands the test of time,” Mochel says. “There’s no frills about it. It’s not four-star burgers, it’s not McDonald’s, it’s just one of those hamburgers that you can make in your backyard, except you get all the great things that go along with Jo Shmo’s.”

Up the street, Rick Martin, executive chef at Free State Brewery, 636 Mass., says the restaurant’s burger has always been a big seller, in the summer months especially. He welcomes the burger’s new found celebrity status with an open griddle.

“It’s one of our highest-selling items, for sure. It’s Americana,” Martin says. “I think we’re in love with the burger.”

Gourmet inspiration

Impress your guests at your next grill-out with some whiz-bang burger topping ideas from the Texas Beef Council:

The Brie Burger: Top each patty with a slice of brie or herbed brie cheese, Granny Smith apple (sliced into rings, onion-style) and spicy mustard.

The Caesar Burger: Whip up Caesar dressing with a package mix. Top each patty with a slice of avocado and the Caesar dressing, then serve on sourdough bread.

The Brew Burger: Two minutes before patties are finished grilling, brush liberally with a mix of equal parts steak sauce and beer. Top with Swiss cheese and slice of sweet onion (such as vidalia).

The Bruschetta Burger: Top patties with tomatoes, chopped fresh basil and mozzarella cheese; serve on toasted French garlic bread.

Fancy burger recipes to try at home

Stuffed Jalapeno Burgers

Sweet Hawaiian Mini Burgers

Lucky Burger

Firecracker Burgers with Cooling Lime Sauce

Blue Bayou Burger

Green Chili Burger