A little bit thrift shop, a little bit rock ‘n’ roll

Clothing designer Anna Sui's latest collection looks to the past for inspiration

? Anna Sui’s “look” is Anna Sui’s look.

“I have a particular eye. Everything around me looks like me, my products look like me, and everything around me looks like my products,” says the designer known for a feminine, vintage-inspired style that’s just a little bit rock ‘n’ roll.

“I guess I like purple…. It’s the cooler version of pink. It’s still girlie but you get the idea that the person wearing that color is one step away from the norm,” she adds, looking around her Manhattan studio.

Indeed, Sui is surrounded by fabric swatches, sketches and tchotchkes in a predominantly purple palette. She sits on a plush eggplant-colored velvet chair that looks suspiciously like a throne.

She recalls seeing a movie when she was a young girl that featured a modern-day princess who had a lavender Rolls Royce. That was a defining moment in her life, Sui says with a laugh.

In person, Sui’s round face lights up often, and she speaks with great animation, but, at the same time, she comes off as modest and even a bit shy. She won’t say how old she is (“I’m 20-Sui” is her standard response), but she seems girlish for someone who graduated high school in suburban Detroit and moved to New York back in the 1970s.

Her outfit on this day is a black jacket with the Western embellishment that served as the theme for her spring collection and a prairie-style skirt decorated with — what else? — purple flowers.

“The only skirt to own (this season) is a peasant or fully pleated skirt that Anna Sui did,” says Michael Fink, senior fashion director at Saks Fifth Avenue. “Cowgirl, folkloric, gypsy — whatever you want to call them — they look great.” And, he adds, they are selling well.

Sui looked to the Old West after spending time in London and noting that the fashion scene there was playing up its Victorian roots. “I wondered, ‘What was going on in the U.S. at the same time?'” she explains.

Designer Anna Sui during an interview in her New York office.

Her answer: Annie Oakley, Buffalo Bill and “the whole Western expansion.”

“I educated myself on the whole period. I studied (George) Catlin’s paintings of American Indians and his use of color and texture. I read Time-Life books about pioneer women,” Sui says. Then she watched classic Western movies, including “Stagecoach” (1939), “She Wore a Yellow Ribbon” (1949) and “Buffalo Bill and the Indians, or Sitting Bull’s History Lesson” (1976).

She then translated the faded colors and rumpled clothing that were part of the settlers’ wardrobe of the late 19th century into a modern collection of voile blouses, petticoat skirts, glitzy rodeo jackets, beaded headbands, cowboy boots and a fringed silver leather Pocahontas dress, which model Naomi Campbell wore on the runway.