Book offers a fresh take on familiar food

This book cover released by Clarkson Potter shows Marcela Valladolid author of "Fresh Mexico: 100 Simple Recipes for True Mexican Flavor".(AP Photo/Clarkson Potter)**NO SALES**

For anyone who’s ever bemoaned the state of the chain restaurant chimichanga, behold, salvation.

Marcela Valladolid’s “Fresh Mexico” makes a clean break with the bready, cheesey, beany Mexican food to which Americans have become accustomed. It offers instead a modern cuisine bursting with fresh vegetables, gentle queso fresco and a half-dozen different chilies, both fresh and ground. Oysters, mangos, crab and even prunes make an appearance.

But don’t be fooled by the range of ingredients. Valladolid is judicious in her demands, and seems to keep her promise of “authentic flavors without the fuss.” Individual recipes require relatively few ingredients, shun complicated techniques and promise bold flavors conjured with elements like anchos and chipotles, lemon, lime, tomatillos, cilantro, rosemary and oregano.

Valladolid immediately demotes the burrito to mere appetizer status, offering a duck-stuffed version as delicate finger food. Mascarpone-stuffed Squash Blossoms with Raspberry Vinaigrette provide an alternative to cheese-drenched nachos.

Valladolid grew up in Tijuana on the U.S.-Mexico border, so it’s not a stretch to think of her as an ambassador between the two cultures — and of her new book as a kind of passport.