Jewish New Year’s blessings are symbolized in traditional foods

? Count apples, honey and pomegranates among the flavors of Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year.

This year Rosh Hashana begins on the eve of Sept. 22 and is celebrated until sunset Sept. 24, with much prayer – and, even more, with food.

But not just any food will do.

Like the Passover seder in April, the classic Rosh Hashana meal evolved through the ages to include the eating of symbolic foods. Some are considered to have mystical powers; others are a subtle way of asking the Divine to fulfill prayers.

Still others were chosen because their names in Yiddish, Hebrew, Aramaic or even Ladino, have connotations appropriate for the contemplative yet hopeful nature of the holiday.

Take the custom of eating tzimmes, a carrot-based stew with variations that can also contain fruit, meat and/or vegetables, traditionally served by Ashkenazim (Jews of Eastern European origin) on Rosh Hashana. The choice of carrots comes from the Yiddish word for carrots – merren, which also means “more” or “increased.” Sliced into coin-shaped pieces, the carrots represent the desire for prosperity and good fortune for those we know and love.

And lest you think that Ashkenazim serve round, ravioli-like kreplach on the holiday just because they taste good, an ancient mystical tradition suggests that since Rosh Hashana falls at the beginning of a lunar month when the new moon is still invisible, some holiday foods should be “covered” as well. The round shape signifies wholeness, too.

In most Jewish homes, the meal begins by dipping apples in honey, to symbolize the desire for a sweet new year. Then a round challah, symbolizing continuity and the hope for a well-rounded year, is dipped into honey rather than salt (customary on the Sabbath and other holidays).

A first course of fish symbolizes fertility, and a dessert of honey cake or dates leaves a sweet taste for more. Autumn in Israel is the season for fresh dates that could be made into a syrup; most Jewish scholars agree this syrup was what the Bible meant by “honey.”

Of all culinary customs, it’s the little-known “Blessings Tray” that deserves special note. Originating in North Africa and enjoying an increasing number of fans, the tray features seven edible items, each a symbol or pun for the New Year, with an accompanying blessing.

In addition to apples and honey, candidates for inclusion in the custom include separate bowls of pomegranates (according to legend, pomegranates hold 613 seeds, the number of good deeds mentioned in the Torah); a fish or sheep’s head with the blessing “to be at the head and not at the tail” (a head of cabbage would also do); and little dishes made up of carrots, leeks, beets and dates, all evoking puns on the desire that enemies be “cut off,” “removed” or “consumed.”

This salad recipe would be perfect for a Blessings Tray, a vegetarian first course or a snack throughout the holiday.

For best flavor, char the eggplants directly on a gas burner. If your stovetop is electric, broil the eggplants on an oven rack close to the broiler element, until blackened, turning occasionally. Place a parchment-lined pan under them to keep the oven clean.

Roasted eggplant and pomegranate seed salad

Serve with challah, toast or crackers.

4 pounds eggplants (about 3 large)

Seeds of 1 pomegranate

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (or more to taste)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper to taste

To garnish:

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint leaves (optional)

3 to 4 tablespoons chopped scallions and/or sliced radishes

Wash and dry eggplants. Cut a hole in the middle of three large squares of aluminum foil, to form “collars” for 3 stovetop gas burners to alleviate cleanup. If you have them, place a rack over each burner to hold the eggplant (cooling racks may also be used).

Put an eggplant on each one of the burners and roast over medium heat, turning occasionally, till blackened on all sides and tender when pierced with a fork. Do not overcook. Use two large kitchen spoons to transfer one eggplant at a time to a cutting board. Let cool until easy to handle.

Slice the eggplant in half lengthwise and use a spoon to scrape out the insides. Discard the skin. Hand-chop the eggplant flesh with a chopping knife till there are no coarse lumps or strips, or use a food processor with a few short pulses. Transfer to a bowl.

Using a fork, mix in the lemon juice and pomegranate seeds, then gently whisk in the olive oil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour onto a large plate and smooth out with a knife. Garnish with chopped mint and scallions or radish slices.

May be made several hours in advance, covered with plastic wrap and chilled till serving time. Bring to room temperature before serving. Makes 6 servings.

(Adapted from “The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking”” by Phyllis Glazer with Miriyam Glazer, Harper-Collins, 2004).

Carrot Tzimmes

1 1/2 pounds carrots, sliced into rounds

3 tablespoons goose fat, butter or light vegetable oil

Salt

Juice of 1 orange

1/4 teaspoon powdered ginger

2 tablespoons honey

In a large wide pan, saute the carrots in the fat, stirring and turning them over. Add the rest of the ingredients and water to cover. Simmer gently, covered for 1/2 hour, or until the carrots are tender. Remove the lid toward the end to reduce the liquid to a shiny glaze.

Note: A pinch of nutmeg or a teaspoon of cinnamon may be substituted for the orange and ginger, and 2 tablespoons currants or raisins added halfway during cooking. Makes 6 servings.

(Adapted from “The Book of Jewish Food” by Claudia Roden, Alfred A. Knopf, 1996)