Who needs leafy greens anyway?

With all the recalls and health concerns of various greens lately, you might find yourself reconsidering the salad course. But that’s no excuse for skipping your (well washed!) veggies. And with cool weather coming, heartier salads might make more sense.

The Italians are masters at these greens-free dishes, with tomato and mozzarella salad among the best known. This traditional starter pairs slices of tomato with slabs of mozzarella cheese, then seasons them with salt and pepper and drizzles it all with olive oil.

In her recent book, “Italian Salads” (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2006, $12.95), Maxine Clark collects 30 similarly alluring salads, more than 20 of which either are, or can easily be made, greens-free.

Particularly appealing this time of year are her grilled mixed vegetables salad with balsamic herb dressing; a tuna, borlotti bean and red onion salad; and a saffron potato salad spiked with capers and sun-dried tomatoes.

Or try one of these other hearty salads, including slices of cantaloupe drizzled with lime juice, feta cheese and chili powder, or Clark’s fava bean and pecorino salad with honey and lemon dressing.

Fava beans and pecorino wiht honey and lemon dressing

(Start to finish 15 minutes)

2 pounds fresh young fava beans in the pod (about 14 ounces shelled beans), or 14 ounces shelled fresh peas

A Cantaloupe and Feta Salad, from Williams-Sonoma's New

9 ounces pecorino cheese

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Crusty bread, to accompany (optional)

Remove the fava beans from the pods. You don’t need to remove the skin from the individual beans if they are very young. On older beans, the skin will be too tough to eat. To peal, plunge them into a pot of boiling water for 1 minute, drain and cool in cold water. Raw shelled peas also can be used. Place the beans or peas in a medium bowl.

Trim any rind from the pecorino, then cut the cheese into cubes about the size of the beans or peas. Add the cheese to the beans.

In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lemon juice, honey, salt and pepper. Pour the dressing over the salad and toss. Serve with bread.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Source: Maxine Clark’s “Italian Salads” (Ryland, Peters and Small, 2006, $12.95)

Cucumber salad

(Start to finish 1 hour 10 minutes,

10 minutes active)

1 English cucumber, halved lengthwise,

seeded and thinly sliced

3 large radishes, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon chopped fresh parsley

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup chopped peanuts

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and toss well to coat. Transfer to a large, flat platter. Cover and let stand 1 hour before serving.

Makes 4 servings.

Source: Healthy Cooking magazine,

June 2006

Cantalope and feta cheese salad

(Start to finish 15 minutes)

2 cantaloupes

1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro, plus additional sprigs for garnish

1/4 cup lime juice

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

2 teaspoons chipotle or other chili powder

Cut each cantaloupe in half and use a large spoon to scoop out the seeds. Cut each half into wedges about 1 inch thick, then carefully cut away the rind.

Arrange the cantaloupe slices on a serving platter, sprinkle with minced cilantro and drizzle with lime juice. Sprinkle with feta cheese and chili powder. Garnish with cilantro sprigs.

Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Source: “Starters,” part of Williams-Sonoma’s “New Healthy Kitchen” cookbook series (Free Press, 2006, $19.95)