Ban on trans fats may not have a place at city’s tables

Leaders: Consumers, not government, should make diet decisions

Lawrence city commissioners were game for a ban on public smoking. They were willing to consider the tightest cell phone restrictions in the nation. And they have no problem with city controls on garage sale signs.

But, unlike officials in some U.S. cities, they draw the line at the french fry.

Edward M. Burke, a longtime Chicago alderman, is pushing to prevent fast-food and national restaurant chains from using trans fats to cook their food.

But Lawrence city commissioners lack appetite for city regulation of trans fats in the restaurant industry.

“My sense is we have so many things on our plate that I don’t know there’s much interest,” Lawrence City Commissioner David Schauner said.

Trans fats – identified by the Food and Drug Administration along with saturated fat and dietary cholesterol as factors increasing the risk of heart disease – have gained growing national attention.

Jason's Deli employee Jenna Sternberger, Lawrence, readies a tray of food Tuesday afternoon at the restaurant, 3140 Iowa. The franchise has had a trans fat-free menu for about two years. Lawrence City Commissioner David Schauner said the city is not likely to follow the lead of a Chicago alderman who is advocating that fast-food and national restaurant chains should be prevented from using trans fats in their food.

Beginning this year, the FDA has required that food companies add the amount of trans fat to nutrition labels.

Trans fats are mostly used to increase shelf life and stabilize the flavor of foods. They can be added to french fries, shortenings, potato chips and other foods made with or fried in partially hydrogenated oils, which are liquid oils turned into solid fats.

Lawrence is home to at least one restaurant, Jason’s Deli, 3140 Iowa, that serves no trans fats. The chain eatery phased out partially hydrogenated oils from its kitchen two years ago, and it also changed the fats in its bread, brownies and chips.

“We tout ourselves as a heart-healthy restaurant and for exclusively health reasons,” said John Baranski, general manager at the Lawrence deli. “It really doesn’t affect taste at all.”

One Jason’s customer, Ben Faunce, of Lawrence, said he didn’t even know the menu was trans fat-free, but he enjoyed the food. He also said he wouldn’t oppose a trans fat ban, should city commissioners decide it was a good idea.

“Trans fat is the hardest fat to get rid of. So why not?” Faunce said while also acknowledging the challenge of mandating a change.

The notion of a ban didn’t please some restaurant owners.

“Somewhere along the line, you have to let these decisions be up to the individual consumer,” said Bob Schumm, owner of Buffalo Bob’s Smokehouse, 719 Mass., and Massachusetts Street Delicatessen, 941 Mass.

Schumm, a former city commissioner, said his restaurants offer salads and other healthy alternatives. Consumers run into trouble, he said, when they do not moderate or balance their diets.

Others in the food business echoed Schumm’s opinion that government regulation isn’t a good idea.

“I’m sure there’s going to be a strong vote against it any time that you legislate dietary or health-type issues before a group of restaurants. They are going to want to make their own decisions,” said Richard King, owner of Restaurant Link in Lawrence.

Schauner said recent trends in diets already tend to shape what restaurants offer, such as the boom in organic food offerings.

“Individual businesses will react to what the consumers want,” Schauner said. “If consumers want that product, I think it’s likely that will cause food retailers to change their product.”

Ann Chapman, a Kansas University dietitian, said she didn’t think a trans fat ban at restaurants would be practical. But people should check food labels at the grocery store when shopping and be more health-conscious, she said.

When at restaurants, she advised avoiding fried foods or easing back on the amounts eaten.

“At least say, ‘I am going to cut down my consumption’ because you’re cutting the fat in half,” she said.