Last week I began extolling the virtues of winter squash, and it turns out that I wasn’t done.

Previously, I made the point that winter squash offers a way to incorporate a seasonal vegetable into our diets at a time when our fresh produce options are shrinking. I also mentioned that most varieties of squash have a subtle flavor that allows them to combine easily with other ingredients.

One other advantage of winter squash is that most varieties also provide a nice backdrop for more dramatic flavors. This is my quick retort to those who complain that squash is bland: Dishes made with squash are only as dull as the cook who prepares them.

The following recipe for curried squash soup is a perfect example of squash’s potential. The recipe is reproduced here as it appears in Bert Greene’s “Greene on Greens” cookbook, but I have made it substituting a white onion for scallions, deli ham for the smoked meat and stewed tomatoes for the plum. I also prefer more garlic.

What’s important are the spices, which make this a warm, filling soup for a fall evening. Serve it with a good bread for a complete meal.

Curried Winter Squash Bisque

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2 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 whole scallions, bulbs and green tops, finely chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 small green pepper, seeded, finely chopped

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley, plus extra for garnish

2 teaspoons chopped fresh basil or 1 teaspoon dried

2 pound butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cubed

1 ham bone, or 1/2-pound chunk of smoked ham

1 14-ounce can plum tomatoes

4 cups chicken broth

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/4 teaspoon ground mace

pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

2 teaspoons curry powder

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the scallions; cook 2 minutes. Add the garlic, green pepper, 1/4 cup chopped parsley and basil. Cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.

Add the squash to the saucepan. Toss to coat it with the scallion mixture. Add the ham bone or meat, tomatoes, broth, allspice, mace and nutmeg. Heat to boiling; reduce the heat. Simmer, covered until the squash is very tender, about 1 hour. Remove the ham bone. If a chunk of meat was used, remove it.

Puree the soup in batches in a blender, being careful as hot liquid will expand. Transfer it to another large saucepan and stir in the curry powder. Heat to boiling; reduce the heat. Simmer 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add salt and pepper to taste and sprinkle with parsley.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.