The first documented production of asparagus in California dates back to 1852, and since then its appearance has become predictable as spring. Now, nearly 95 percent of the 200 million pounds of fresh asparagus grown in the United States comes from California.

The harvest begins in February, supplies peak in March, April and May, then taper off into June.

Asparagus spears are cut by hand when they measure about 9 inches in length. Careful harvesting means more green and little waste.

The California Asparagus Commission offers the following tips on making the most of asparagus:

• Choose bright green asparagus with compact, firm tips and smooth, tender skin. Growers offer a range of sizes that fit every application, from standard (5/16 inch) to jumbo (13/16 inch). The jumbo spears are just as tender as the thin ones. Tenderness relates to color, the greener the better for green asparagus (or the whiter the better for white asparagus).
• Handle asparagus spears like flowers. Trim the butt end of the spears, then refrigerate, upright, standing in an inch of water.

Cover with plastic. Or wrap the cut ends in a wet paper towel and store in a plastic bag with the top of bag left open. Stored this way, fresh asparagus keeps for 2 to 3 days refrigerated.