Concord, N.H. ? There’s a whole new way to enjoy soy.

Actually, it’s new only to Western diets. Asian cultures for ages have enjoyed edamame soybeans eaten direct from the pod rather than turned into tofu or other soy-based products.

The best part is, you don’t need to like bean curd and soy milk to love edamame. It’s a quick, lowfat and easy way to add soy (and fiber) to your diet, and it tastes nothing like tofu.

Edamame (pronounced ed-ah-MAH-may) is offered as an appetizer in many Japanese restaurants. The traditional way to serve it is simple: steam the beans in their pods (roughly 10 minutes) and season heavily with salt (most won’t be eaten).

To eat, diners grab a pod, place half of it in their mouths and suck the beans out of it, getting a bit of salt from the outside while they’re at it. The crunchy, fresh taste can be as addictive as potato chips (probably thanks in part to the salt).

Once found only in Asian markets, bags of frozen edamame now can be found at mainstream grocers.

For a variation on the traditional recipe, try dusting the steamed pods with paprika, garam masala and just a bit of salt. Garlic powder and melted butter (or soy margarine) also are nice.

In her recent book, “Passionate Vegetarian” (Workman, 2002, $24.95), Crescent Dragonwagon offers another suggestion: Pop the beans out of their pods, then stir-fry them in olive oil with a handful of slivered spinach, several crushed cloves of garlic and a little salt and pepper.

As an alternative to steaming, Dragonwagon suggests boiling and adding a bit of star anise to provide flavor and aroma.

Soybeans already cooked and shelled also have become widely available, most often in cans, but sometimes frozen. These are great for adding to soups and stir-fries, and can make a great chili, too.

A bit of edamame etiquette: provide each diner with a small plate on which to place discarded pods, which are fibrous and fairly inedible.

Other great, quick-and-easy ways to enjoy soybeans: Try them in these recipes for spinach pasta with Asian dressing, and for pasta with soybeans and pesto.

Spinach Pasta With Asian Dressing

8 ounces spinach pasta (any shape or flavor of pasta can be used)
12-ounce bag frozen cauliflower and broccoli florets
2 cups frozen edamame (shelled)
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
3 tablespoons rice vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over a medium-high flame. Add pasta and cook for 5 minutes. Add the cauliflower, broccoli and edamame to the pot and cook until the pasta is done, about another 4 to 5 minutes. The vegetables should be tender and heated through.

Meanwhile, prepare the dressing by whisking together all remaining ingredients in a small bowl.

Transfer the pasta to a serving bowl and toss with dressing. Serve immediately.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.

Pasta With Soybeans and Pesto

1 pound ziti pasta
15-ounce can soybeans
3 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 1/2 to 2 1/2 tablespoons pesto
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil (optional)

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over a medium-high flame. Cook pasta for 8 to 10 minutes, or until tender.

Meanwhile, place the soybeans in a mesh strainer and rinse under warm water for several minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the tomatoes and pesto and toss well to combine.

Drain the pasta and transfer to the bowl with beans and tomatoes. Toss well. Add salt and pepper to taste. If desired, drizzle with several tablespoons olive oil. Serve immediately.

Makes 4 servings.