Portland, Ore. ? A trio of recipes for the home cook to try shows the versatility of the chestnut.

Remember that although the season for fresh nuts ends in December, dried or canned chestnuts are available year-round.

Kuri Kimpira, Savory Soy-Glazed Chestnuts

—-

12 chestnuts (about 1/2 pound)

1/4 cup sake

4 coins of fresh ginger, each about the size of a quarter

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons Japanese soy sauce

Prepare chestnuts: With a short, sharp knife, cut the flat side of each chestnut by inserting the point of the knife near the point of the chestnut and rotating the knife to cut a semicircular slash in the outer skin.

Place chestnuts and 2 quarts of water in a large saucepan over medium high heat. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and simmer 15 minutes. Drain and return to warm pot. Peel off both layers of skin, cool and refrigerate up to three days or continue with next step.

In a nonstick medium-sized frying pan, warm sake and ginger over medium heat until sake boils; reduce to about half of original volume. Add salt, sugar and soy sauce and cook until syrupy. Add chestnuts and roll around gently in sauce, then cook over low heat until moisture is almost all evaporated and immediately remove from heat. Discard ginger and serve chestnuts warm or cooled.

Makes 4 servings. Recipe from Maya H. Klein, Portland, Ore., cooking instructor.

Chocolate-Chestnut Truffles

—-

4 ounces semisweet chocolate

1 cup cooked peeled chestnuts (about 8 ounces unpeeled)

About 1/3 cup heavy cream

1 tablespoon dark rum

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

Break up the chocolate and place it in the top half of a double boiler. Set over a saucepan partly filled with simmering water. Heat, stirring occasionally, until smooth and melted. Remove the bowl and let it cool.

In a food processor or blender, puree the chestnuts with 2 tablespoons of the cream and the rum until very smooth. Stir in the chocolate and just enough cream to make a soft consistency that barely holds a shape.

Spread the cocoa on a plate. Drop a tablespoonful of the chestnut mixture into the cocoa. With a fork, turn it until coated. If the mixture gets too soft to handle, refrigerate it briefly. Transfer the truffle to a paper candy cup or place it on a sheet of wax paper on a cookie sheet. Repeat with the remaining chestnut mixture.

When all the truffles have been shaped, refrigerate them until firm, at least 1 hour. Transfer the truffles to an airtight container. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

To make ahead: Truffles keep well for up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. They can also be frozen for up to 1 month. If frozen, defrost in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Let stand at room temperature for 15 minutes before serving.

Makes about 3 dozen truffles. Recipe from Michele Scicolone’s “A Fresh Taste of Italy.”

Chestnut Leek and Fennel Soup

—-

2 cups cooked, peeled chestnuts

1 medium leek, white and green part only, chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons dry white wine (optional)

1 large fennel bulb, chopped

4 cups mild vegetable or chicken broth

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1/2 to 1 cup creme fraiche or sour cream (regular, low or nonfat)

Fennel frond for garnish

Chop chestnuts coarsely. In a heavy soup pot over moderate heat, saute leeks in butter until softened. Add wine, if using, and cook until wine is nearly evaporated. Stir in chestnuts, fennel, and broth. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook for 20 minutes. If any residual brown papery inner skins from chestnuts rise to surface, remove with a slotted spoon. Remove pot from heat and cool slightly.

Puree soup in batches in a food processor or blender until smooth, transferring puree to a large bowl. (Take care in blending hot liquid.) Return soup to heat, bring back to a simmer, and season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Ladle soup into bowls and garnish with creme fraiche or sour cream and fennel frond, if desired.

Makes 4 to 6 servings. Recipe from Sandy Bole, Ladd Hill Orchards, Sherwood, Ore.