Dr. Gene Manahan has searched the world in his quest to attain knowledge about bonsai gardening.

The retired Lawrence surgeon has traveled to Japan (three times), China, Hong Kong, Taiwan, the Philippines and Hawaii to further learn from bonsai masters the unique and intricate form of growing plants.

Manahan has discovered that the living art is as fascinating as its history and as beautiful as the gardener’s soul who embarks on molding these little trees to their eyes’ fancy.

“You have to learn a little bit about horticulture and a little bit about styling to begin growing bonsai trees,” he says.

Bonsai (pronounced bone-sigh) is derived from the Japanese word “hom,” meaning tray, and “sai” meaning tree. Bonsai have taken on a variety of styles through the centuries. Rocks were introduced into the containers, as were supplementary and accent plants — even small buildings and people, known as the art of bon-kei.

The art of bonsai gardening is a wonderful way to stay occupied with gardening all year round.

But it takes patience.

Tireless enthusiasm

Manahan works tirelessly on the bonsai plants in his garden and greenhouse. He has 15 to 20 hardy bonsai outside, including juniper, elm and black pine, and another 10 or so tropical bonsai in his greenhouse, including bougainvillea, ficus, buttonwood and Fukien tea.

He labels the trees with the dates they were last re-potted, defoliated and root-pruned. He also keeps a detailed journal, with photographs and notes of his bonsai plants’ progress and appearance throughout the year.

Manahan’s bought his oldest bonsai in 1971: a Ginko tree that was 75 to 100 years old at the time. The 3-foot-tall tree sports a gnarled old trunk and stunning yellow leaves.

The beauty of bonsai plants, Manahan says, is age.

“It is not how old the tree is,” he says. “It is how old the tree looks like it is.”

Many of Manahan’s trees were collected from the forest or by taking a clipping from a tree found in nature. Small-leafed varieties are most suitable, but any plant may be used, regardless of the size it grows to in the wild.

“Bonsai are interesting because when some varieties are potted they will adapt and actually reduce the size of their leaves,” Manahan says. “However, their flowers and fruit sizes will remain the same.”

Aesthetics

Bonsai can be developed from seeds or cuttings transplanted into containers. They range from 2 inches to nearly 31/2 feet in height. Bonsai are kept small by pruning the branches and roots and by training the shape with wiring.

They are potted in shallow vessels. A bonsai tree should always be positioned somewhat off-center in its container. Not only is asymmetry vital to the visual effect, but the center point is symbolically where heaven and earth meet — and nothing should occupy this space.

Another aesthetic principal is the triangular pattern necessary both for visual balance and as an expression of the relationship shared by a deity, the artist and the tree.

There are two styles of bonsai: classic (koten) and the informal (bunjin). In the classic, the trunk of the tree is wider at the base and tapers off toward the top. The informal style is opposite — and more difficult to master.

How to get started

The art of growing a bonsai tree is quite personal, and there are no strict rules. However, it requires commitments of time, patience, skill, endurance and artistic expression.

Find a shallow container. Manahan suggests not potting in ordinary soil because drainage is of the utmost importance.

“Try using a mixture of baked clay bits with peat moss and a little bit of plain dirt. This concoction works wonderfully for me,” he says. “Sand is OK as well, but great drainage is an absolute must.”

Before planting in the soil, take the young plant and gently spread out and look at its roots. They should be healthy and have many small tendrils. You may trim the excess length off and round out the root ball.

Place the plant in the shallow dish, put the soil mixture over the roots and then let the bonsai grow for about six months without disturbing it other than watering. After the first six months, you may begin to manipulate the plant to achieve a desired look. This is done by wiring around the limbs and/or trunk. A paper-coated wire is best to protect the plant. The wire is usually left on anywhere from three to six months, after which it’s best to repot the plant and trim its roots.

“The roots should be pruned one-third to one-half of the entire root ball,” Manahan says. “Junipers and pines are good plants to get started in bonsai. They are not as difficult because they only have to be re-potted and the roots pruned every two or three years.”