‘Intimate Apparel’ examines lost period of African-American history

There’s no shortage of literature on the African-American experience in the 20th century. From Toni Morrison to Ralph Ellison to Austin Pickett, there is a lot of great material chronicling being black in America in modernity.

But most of it is set during and after the Harlem Renaissance in the 1920s.

“There’s a period of lost history between the Emancipation and the Harlem Renaissance,” says KU doctoral candidate Scott C. Knowles.

Knowles is directing University Theatre’s new production of Lynn Nottage’s play “Intimate Apparel.” Set in 1905, it tells the story of Esther, a black seamstress in New York, who has found a successful business niche making women’s undergarments.

“She makes lingerie for high-society ladies and for prostitutes,” Knowles says.

Esther dreams of one day opening a beauty shop. She’s been saving her earnings from her lingerie business for years with the goal of doing what she really wants, not just what makes her successful.

Nottage, who won a Pulitzer Prize for her play “Ruin,” wanted to reclaim this period of African-American history.

“It’s a play about racial relations, class relations, and gender relations,” Knowles says about the complex story.

Esther begins correspondence with a man working on the Panama Canal. He eventually comes to New York, and they are married. But it’s a marriage of societal expectations.

Esther is more interested in Mr. Marks, from whom she buys her materials. They share interest in fabrics and colors. But she’s black, and he’s an Orthodox Jew.

“There is no way for them to be together,” Knowles says.

The story is further complicated by Esther’s principal customers.

“Maymie, the prostitute, sleeps with her husband,” Knowles says. “And Mrs. Van Buren, the society lady, becomes attracted to Esther, who’s really uncomfortable with it. What’s great about that is it’s not disturbing because the attention is from a woman; it’s disturbing because the attention is unwelcome. It’s the same as if it had come from a man.”

Knowles became interested in “Intimate Apparel” because of its exploration of complex issues.

“My research is in minority issues in theater,” he says. “This play deals with many of those concerns.”

But it was really the artistic merits of the play that drew his attention.

“It’s an absolutely beautiful story,” he says. “It’s really a story about falling in love with the wrong person.”

“Intimate Apparel” runs April 3, 4, 5, 7, 9, 10 and 11 at the Inge Theatre at the University of Kansas. Curtain is at 7:30 p.m. for all shows except Sunday, April 7, when it is 2:30 p.m. Tickets are $10-$15 and are available by calling 785-864-3982 or online at kutheatre.com.