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Archive for Thursday, April 8, 2010

Harvey Houses on the prairie: How a Kansas man pioneered the hospitality industry

The Topeka Depot of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, where Fred Harvey took over the second-floor lunchroom in early 1876.

The Topeka Depot of the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe, where Fred Harvey took over the second-floor lunchroom in early 1876.

April 8, 2010

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Past Event
"Appetite for America"

A talk and book signing about the Harvey Houses by Stephen Fried

  • When: Friday, April 9, 2010, 4 p.m.
  • Where: Kansas State Historical Society, 6425 SW 6th Ave., Topeka, KS
  • Cost: Free
  • More on this event....
Author Stephen Fried.

Author Stephen Fried.

Audio Clips
Biographer Stephen Fried talking about Fred Harvey and his revolutionary Harvey Houses

Little-known fact: Lawrence was at the epicenter of a revolution in global capitalism.

When America was 100 years old, and Kansas was just 15, the economy was, of course, built around agriculture and manufacturing. The service-based economy of today was as inconceivable as credit cards or the Internet.

Then came along Fred Harvey of Leavenworth.

His pioneering vision for customer service would set the stage for the service empires of today such as Hilton, Marriott and all manner of restaurant chains, says Stephen Fried, author of "Appetite for America," the first-ever biography of Harvey.

Fried's whistle-stop book tour on the Southwest Chief makes three stops in Kansas City and Topeka, including a talk and book signing at 4 p.m. Friday at the Kansas State Historical Society.

Like his book, Fried's talks will set Harvey in the context of a little-known yet defining period of American history.

"I think of them as the 'fly over' years — between the Civil War and the Depression," Fried says. "It's really an amazing chapter of American history that most of us slept through in school."

Much of Harvey's legacy was previously scattered around many collections across the country as well as hidden away in Harvey family records. That might explain why a biography of Harvey had never been written, says Lin Fredericksen of the Kansas State Historical Society.

Her Topeka-based archive has quite a bit of material that Fried drew from for his book.

"It was a long process — I believe we corresponded off and on for over a year and a half," Fredericksen says. "I was very impressed with his depth of knowledge."

Pioneering vision

In 1875, the finer appointments of civilization were few and far between. You could dine on, say, oysters and fresh vegetables with silverware served by a waiter in New York City or Chicago or Los Angeles, but not likely anywhere on the road in between.

Especially not in Kansas.

"Kansas was the West then — that was the end of America. There was the America that went to Fort Leavenworth, and then there was California," Fried says.

As a railroad man who traveled constantly, selling and delivering freight around the country, Harvey knew all too well how rough life on the road was.

"One of the things he realized on these trips — because he had a really bad stomach — was that the food and the service on these trains and track-side restaurants was horrible. It was abhorrent. People talked about it all over the country, but they talked about it like something that could never be fixed," Fried says.

Harvey was in a unique position to do something about it. He parlayed his railroad contacts and his familiarity with sellers of all kinds of goods from around the country into the first Harvey Houses in 1875 — one of which was in Lawrence.

"Since the Lawrence one is closest to Leavenworth, it's most likely that that's the one they worked on first," Fried says. "If Lawrence wanted to claim its Fred Harvey heritage, it certainly could."

Stunning things in remote places

By the turn of the century, Harvey had fully developed his new business model and was well under way building a hospitality empire.

Railroad towns all along the dusty route from Chicago to California suddenly had first-class hotels and restaurants, 30 of which were in Kansas.

Harvey Houses were stunning things to have in such remote places, Fried says. A typical one "looked like it should be in Chicago or New York City, if it existed at all. It seemed like it was a mirage."

The Harvey Girls of Syracuse stand for a portrait.

The Harvey Girls of Syracuse stand for a portrait.

Fine tablecloths, real silverware, crystal, glistening coffee urns and the famous Harvey Girls — the first female work force in America — whose service was impeccable yet swift.

"It was an amazing thing to watch. People talked about just being able watch it — it was like ballet, to watch these waitresses and chefs at work," Fried says.

"They had to be able to serve a perfect gourmet meal in ... the train breaks — only 30 minutes."

Suddenly small-town America could get fresh vegetables from California, fresh fish from the Great Lakes, oysters from the Pacific — all kinds of goods that the Harvey Houses stocked from refrigerated cars straight off the trains.

"You can't overestimate what it was like to have a Harvey House restaurant in a town where, before, there might have been a little restaurant that wasn't able to serve fresh food because they couldn't get it," Fried says.

That's one of Harvey's legacies celebrated by foodie and widely read journalist William Allen White. On Feb. 14, 1901, he wrote in the Emporia Weekly Gazette:

"Fred Harvey, who is dying, has lived a useful life. He has done more to promulgate good cooking — healthful, substantial, wholesome, digestible cooking — in Kansas than all the cook books ever published ... Fred Harvey was a greater man than if he had been elected to something. The Gazette hereafter will pay more attention to men out of politics."

Comments

Jimo 4 years, 8 months ago

I read most of this book while stranded in DC this winter. Reminded me of Judy Garland in "The Harvey Girls" from 1946 and the musical hit "The Atchison, Topeka and the Santa Fe" that came from the movie.

smerdyakov 4 years, 8 months ago

Jimo, Is that a good thing? Book worth checking out?

Jimo 4 years, 8 months ago

I found the book interesting and entertainingly written. The book would appeal to people interested in the Kansas-aspect of history, the early modern era in the U.S., railroads, or business history. (Business efficiency wasn't invented by Sam Walton nor is standardized hospitality the product of Ray Crock or seeming ubiquity the creation of Starbucks. Harvey pioneered all that.)

The book is an example of a trend in recent years for non-historians to write histories of overlooked topics, notable in their day but largely now forgotten. It's also very much about people of which Fred Harvey is only one.

Fred Whitehead Jr. 4 years, 8 months ago

The story of Fred Harvey and his effect on the food service in his Harvey House resturants is a very fine example of the history of the settling of the west. This article noted that Fred Harvey was from Leavenworth, but he actually was an immigrant from England. He worked as a telegrapher for the Chicago, Burlington and Quincy Railroad for a time. He became aware of the horrible food served at greasy spoon diners where the trains would stop for meals in his day. There was no dining car service at that time. He made a verbal agreement with the management of the Atcheson, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway in Topeka to povide excellent food service for the customers of the railroad. The rest, as they say, is history. His female waitresses, the Harvey Girls, was a novel idea at the time, but as one journalist once said, the Harvey Girls helped with the settlment of the west, not with a rifle and pistol, but with a beefsteak and good cup of coffee.

Cynthia Schott 4 years, 8 months ago

Definitely worth checking into. My grandmother was a Harvey girl in Kansas.

editer 4 years, 8 months ago

frwent, Indeed he was an English immigrant — I was careful to say that he was "of" Leavenworth when he came along ... I wish I'd had space to go into more detail of his story, and much more detail of what Fried had to say about him. The audio clips do some of that. Anyway, the book does a much better job of telling Harvey's story than this article could — consider this a necessarily brief teaser for an otherwise thoroughly fascinating, much longer story~phil

situveux1 4 years, 8 months ago

One of the only Harvey Houses left in the state is in Florence, Kansas. It's too bad that wasn't mentioned.

kansasplains 4 years, 8 months ago

And don't forget the fascinating part the Journal-World played in getting this story onto the internet in such an interesting way! Lawrence Morgan

TopJayhawk 4 years, 8 months ago

Love this story. Might have to go to the Hisorical Society tomorrow. I had three great Aunts who were Harvey Girls.
One of my great aunts who lived to be ninty-eight, told me one time when I was asking about the Harney House thing told me: "Harvey girls enjoyed great respect, more so than most women at the time."
I asked her if it was hard to be a Harvey girl, and she said (she was a wonderful old woman who would say about anything) No, it wasn't hard, as long as you had big T*ts,. So you see reticent, you are pretty much right.
What a hoot(er).

TopJayhawk 4 years, 8 months ago

when I was a kid (back in the sixties) My Dad (a Santa Fe employee) once took me upstairs of that wonderful old depot in Dodge City. I was in the hotel part of the Harvey House. I remember fabulous woodwork, big chandeliers, and large grand staircases. Even as a small boy, I could see and imagine the opulance of the place. What history, I love it.

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