A seasoned wok is best for making pad Thai, but a heavy stainless steel saute pan or a seasoned cast-iron skillet works well, too. Use an oil that can withstand high heat, such as peanut, corn, canola or grapeseed.

To keep the wok from cooling down, prepare the dish in two batches, using 2 tablespoons of oil per batch. Adding all of the noodles at once will crowd and cool down the pan, resulting in gummy, oily noodles.

Though tamarind paste is the traditional ingredient used in the sauce, most grocers carry the more intensely flavored tamarind concentrate. This recipe was developed using the latter.

Most palm sugar is sold as hard lumps. A box grater can be used to break it up, but a food processor is easier and faster.

1/2 pound dried wide rice noodles (they should resemble translucent linguini)

1/2 cup fish sauce, divided

1 tablespoon tamarind concentrate

1/4 cup water

1/2 cup palm sugar (sometimes called jaggery)

4 tablespoons peanut oil, divided

4 teaspoons dried chili flakes, divided

1 pound firm or extra-firm pressed tofu, cut into 1/2-inch squares

4 cloves garlic, minced

1/3 cup dried shrimp

1 cup chopped garlic chives or scallions

1 cup mung bean sprouts

1/3 cup crushed dry-roasted peanuts

4 eggs

Lime wedges

2 Thai chilies or serrano peppers, seeded, veins removed, then thinly sliced

Place the noodles in a large bowl. Add enough warm, but not boiling, water to cover. Set aside for 30 minutes.

While the noodles soak, in small saucepan over low, whisk together 1/4 cup of the fish sauce, the tamarind concentrate, water and palm sugar. Whisk until the sugar is dissolved and the sauce is just warm. Do not boil. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Once the noodles have soaked, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drain the noodles and add to the boiling water for 1 minute. Drain, rinse with cool water, then set aside in the colander.

Heat a wok or large heavy saute pan over high. Add 2 tablespoons of the oil, swirling the pan to coat the surface.

When the oil begins to lightly smoke, add 2 teaspoons of the chili flakes and half of the tofu. Fry the tofu for about 5 seconds, then add half each of the garlic and dried shrimp. Fry until the tofu is lightly brown, about another 30 seconds.

Add half of the noodles and a small ladleful of the sauce, stirring quickly to mix so the noodles do not stick together. Cook for about 30 seconds.

Push the noodles to one side of the pan. Crack 2 eggs into the pan. Let the eggs sit for about 5 seconds, then scramble for another 5 seconds. Toss with the noodles to mix well.

Add half each of the chives or scallions, sprouts and peanuts, then quickly toss. Transfer to serving plates, then repeat the frying process with the remaining ingredients.

Serve with lime wedges, the remaining fish sauce and fresh chilies. Serves 4.