Selecting a tree species that is well-adapted to the area and suitable for the planting site is important, but there are other things you should also consider when you get to the nursery or garden center. Poor form, overly adequate or inadequate root systems, insects and disease problems may take years to manifest themselves into major problems, but over time they can take a serious toll on the life of a tree.

The first two considerations are slightly dependent on species, so it’s a good idea to ask questions or do a little homework about the natural form of a tree when you select a species. If you are looking for a weeping tree, narrow upright tree or some other special tree form, ignore my suggestions on form and branch angles.

If you’re looking for a more typical shade tree (oaks, maples, etc.), take a close look at the shape. Most trees grow up to be strongest when their main trunk is straight and taller than the other branches on the tree. You may hear a nursery staffer or landscaper refer to these trees as having strong central leader.

The angle that is created where a branch comes out from the trunk is referred to as the branch angle or crotch. Wide branch angles are stronger than narrow branch angles because of the way the wood attaches, so look for a tree (within your preferred species) with the widest branch angles you can find.

Insect and disease problems may be harder to detect, but look closely at leaves, buds, stems and trunks for signs of damage. Many of the pest problems we have in this area occur every year, so if the crabapple at the nursery has a leaf spot disease now, the disease will likely be back every year.

Broken branches and scrapes may be signs of poor handling and can serve as entry points for future insect and disease problems.

Root systems are important to examine also, but recommendations are dependent on whether the tree is container-grown, balled and burlapped (b and b), or bare root.

Container-grown trees should have lots of thin, hairlike roots, but not so many that the roots are visible out the top or bottom of the pot. I like to stick my finger in the soil near the edge of the pot. Ideally, there will be roots out to the edge. If the tree is pot-bound, you probably won’t be able to get your finger into the soil because of the density. Holes in the soil that look like they were made by critters probably were, and the roots may be damaged.

B and b trees are rarely pot-bound, but look for a tree trunk that widens at the base, near where the burlap starts. Some trees exhibit this flare better than others, but occasionally soil gets piled around the base of the tree and causes problems later. Most nurserymen are aware of this problem and are doing their best to remedy it.

Bare root trees are generally very small. (There is research going on across the country about transplanting large bare root trees, but I doubt you will see them available anytime in the near future because of logistical issues.) Look for lots of fine, flexible, healthy roots and avoid bare root trees with very dry, moldy or decayed root systems.

— Jennifer Smith is the Douglas County Extension Agent – Horticulture for K-State Research and Extension. Contact her or an Extension Master Gardener with your gardening questions at 843-7058 or dgemg@sunflower.com.