Better plant selection reduces surprises

In the gardening world, lawn and garden pests are sometimes your worst nightmare. You spend time and money planting something and nurturing it along, and seemingly overnight, an insect or disease moves in and takes it away.

Some pests will always win the battle, but others are easily controlled by planning ahead. Plant selection, good management practices and an awareness of common problems in our area put us far ahead of the tiny organisms that wreak so much havoc.

Insects, fungal diseases and weeds are the most common garden pests, but nematodes, viruses, bacteria and even small animals can be nuisances (including my little dog at times).

Here are just a few of the most common pests in our area with simple methods for control:

¢ Spider mites: Tiny eight-legged creatures that feed on a variety of plants. They are too small to see with the naked eye, but damage is visible. Hosing the plant down with a strong stream of water will provide good control. Spruce, tall garden phlox and tomato plants are mite favorites. If you suspect spider mites, hold a white piece of paper under a branch or stem, tap the branch and look for tiny specks moving on the paper.

¢ Septoria leaf spot and early blight of tomato: Both of these fungal leaf spots defoliate tomato plants or leave them looking like palm trees. They spread by splashing, so try watering with soaker hoses instead of a sprinkler. Removing and destroying tomato vines in the fall reduces the amount of disease.

¢ Fungal blights of pines: Three are common: Dothistroma needle blight, Diplodia tip blight and brown spot. These diseases are good arguments for plant replacement – the only way to control the fungi are with timed, repeated fungicide applications. Raking up needles and cones and removing them helps with control.

¢ Peach leaf curl: This was named Pest of the Week at K-State last week because of its abundant occurrence around the state. It causes leaves of peach and nectarine trees to thicken, distort and take on a reddish hue. Water the tree regularly this summer to reduce stress and thin fruit heavily once it sets to promote good air circulation. Plan to use a dormant spray this winter, before buds swell, to better control the fungus.

¢ Bagworms: These must be controlled after the crawlers emerge, which is usually later this month. The crawlers are best controlled when they are very small, so if you have junipers or cedars, start watching for them. Picking off existing bags and destroying them will help. Products containing Bacillus thuriengiensis are effective when crawlers are young. When they get bigger, only insecticides such as Orthene, cyfluthrin, permethrin, malathion and Sevin are effective. There is no preventative, and none of these products will work in late July and August when bagworms become the most visible.

¢ Grubs: There are two common kinds that vary in life cycle and control measures, but grub damage typically appears in turf as wilting and browning. With heavy damage, sod can be pulled up like a carpet where grubs have eaten the roots. If you only find one grub, it is probably not the culprit – turf often handles 10-12 grubs per square foot. If you suspect grubs, identify how many and which species you have and plan your management based on that. Also, as with any product, take time to read the label before applying. With grub control products, children and pets must be prevented from entering the treated area until post application irrigation has dried.

A few other tips to remember:

¢ Check plants often for signs of pests.

¢ If you see damage, identify the source of the problem before attempting to treat.

¢ Identify cultural/management practices that will help to control the problem.

¢ Remember that many insects are beneficial.

If you have questions about managing the above-mentioned pests, or others, call a Douglas County Extension Master Gardener at 843-7058, 1 p.m.-4 p.m. Monday-Friday, or e-mail dgemg@sunflower.com anytime.