Stepping into Coffee Talk, 724 Main St. in Eudora, is akin to being embraced by the small-town community spirit that existed in pre-World War II America. The downtown coffee shop combines past and present in a delightful, understated way.

Owners DeeAnn and David Alvarez wanted to create a relaxing, eclectic place where people could enjoy the best in local pottery, jewelry and fine art along with a good cup of coffee, pastry or light lunch.

“We offer a bit of everything with a local flair, including live music on Saturday nights,” DeeAnn said. “Folks can sit and read the available newspapers and books with a cup of tea or coffee, pick up original cards for special occasions or purchase locally made jewelry, art and pottery. We’re like a variety coffee store.”

This echoes the building’s original use. In 1906, Carl Trefz opened and operated a variety store there until he retired in 1974 at age 92. His niece-in-law, Mildred Trefz, remembers it well.

“Carl sold nearly everything: clothes, shoes, denims, yard tools, dishes, household goods, and, of course, the candy which attracted my children,” Mildred remembered. “He displayed stuff on large wooden tables in the middle of the store.”

Mildred likes the way the present owners have combined the old and new.

The original tin ceiling tiles have been subtly bronzed to enhance the intricate patterns, and the restored wooden floor and shelving now look newly old. Framed sepia photographs of Eudora’s past adorn the walls, and various history books are available for folks to jolt their memories by delving more deeply into bygone records. Local art, in various mediums, is displayed on the tables, walls and original shelves. There are driftwood designs by Gary Hinman, the Eudora High School teacher whose “Toast of the Town” series debuted at WheatFields Bakery in Lawrence. You can also delight in work by Eudora illustrator Laura Reaka and Lawrence artist Constance Ehrlich, among others.

Lori Fritzel, secretary of Eudora Chamber of Commerce, is excited about Coffee Talk’s role in the renewal of downtown.

“We got the enhancement grant from the Kansas Department of Transportation but needed people like Dave and DeAnn to step up,” Fritzel said. “They’re passionate about rebuilding community and supporting local artists and businesses. They’re extending the coffee shop’s vision and role with plans for events like Art in the Park and a music festival. They’re the right people at the right time to entice people to visit Eudora.”

Retirees Charlotte Wilks, Perry, and Ruth Wieneke, Lawrence, have succumbed to Eudora’s enticement. The long-time friends visit Coffee Talk at least twice weekly. Wilks loves the jewelry and artwork, as well as the coffee and food. She suggests bierocks (pastries filled with beef and cabbage or jalapeno).

“They’re unbelievable,” she said.

Wieneke hoisted herself onto a barstool and declared the shop her favorite place.

“It’s like the old days,” she said. “You meet new people and just start conversations about everything.”

Dayla Feldman, who’s lived in Eudora for 18 years, agreed.

“This is my new hangout. I come here every day and can’t believe the number of new friends I’ve made already,” she said. “I love the Saturday night music and the whole sense of community being created here.”

I perched myself on a bar stool and had hot tea in a Craig Laggerman pottery mug. DeeAnn explained that each mug is unique.

“I try to select a mug that fits the character and personality of the customer,” she said.

Mine was a wide-mouthed, oddly shaped huggable mug with a green and blue design. Hmm. All those gathered at the bar, including Kris Thom, who’d just driven from Claremore, Okla., agreed it was a perfect match. Thom, a specialized barista, is moving to Eudora to work at Coffee Talk. DeAnn is excited.

“Chris is bringing specialized equipment as well as his expertise, so we’ll be introducing his gourmet five-bean espresso.”

I was so absorbed in the exchanges I nearly stuck to the bar stool. I added lunch to my earlier tea-break with Amore chocolate pizza (produced locally). The delicious freshly made chicken salad sandwich rounded off what turned out to be a unique experience which delivered a rich slice of American hospitality at its best.

Tea: 3

Coffee: 3

Service: 5

Ambience: 5