If you ask me about growing roses, I will tell you that there are really only two types of roses: those that require a lot of care and those that do not. I consent to the fact that there are more classifications, but all roses can really be grouped into those two categories.

Low-maintenance rose varieties are becoming more popular because they are generally more hardy in our Kansas weather and more versatile in the landscape. Shrub varieties such as Knockout are top sellers in recent years. Some polyantha-type such as “the Fairy” and some floribunda and grandiflora varieties also require little attention.

If you are thinking about trying roses, selection and proper planting, with just a little bit of care, will reap the blooms you long for in the garden.

Look for varieties that are labeled as disease-resistant. Black spot is a fungal disease that loves our hot, humid Kansas summers, and eventually defoliates plants. Powdery mildew is another bane of rose lovers, although it is less of a problem than black spot.

Seek roses that are grown on their own roots. This seems simple enough, but hybrid tea varieties (what my mother grew) are grafted onto a rootstock that is hardier than the plant itself. Grafted roses require protection each winter, which equals more work.

When planting roses, remove weak or damaged canes from the plant. If the plants are bare root (no soil), prune the roots to about 8 inches long and be sure to dig the hole large enough for the roots to lie comfortably before backfilling with soil. If planting roses out of containers, dig the hole slightly larger than the mass of soil and roots. If the roots seem tightly knit together in the bottom of the pot, break them apart before planting. Fertilize rose plants when planting.

Take the time to fertilize roses three times each year. Kansas State University recommends fertilizing just before new buds appear in the spring, once during the flowering season and once in mid-August. Avoid fertilizing after mid-August so that the plant can prepare itself for winter.

Prune low-maintenance rose varieties once a year. The best time to prune is in the spring, about the time that buds begin to appear on the stems. Use sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle just above the new bud. Leaving the stem a little too long is better than damaging the new bud with the cut, but remember that the end of the cane will die back to the bud.

Sterilize pruners by dipping them in a 10 percent bleach solution before you start each plant. This will prevent the spread of virus diseases that are unlikely but possible.

Dead and diseased canes can be removed to the base of the plant. Overall, shrub roses can be cut back to 18 to 24 inches tall, and shorter varieties can be cut back farther. Just avoid cutting all of the canes back to the ground.

Keep 2 to 3 inches of mulch on top of the ground around the base of the plant, but avoid mounding mulch against the stem itself. The first year, roses may also require some supplemental watering, but overall are fairly drought-tolerant. Once established, water the plants only enough to provide about 1 inch of water per week. A long, slow drench once a week will suffice.

Now you know the key to having roses for a lifetime without a lot of work – purchase disease-resistant, hardy varieties and give them a little love.

Roses that require more care have different care recommendations. Ask for expert advice with this and your other garden questions by calling the Douglas County Extension Master Gardener Garden hot line, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. Monday-Friday, or by e-mailing dgemg@sunflower.com.