Sparkling tips for buying jewelry

If that diamond ring don’t shine

Some tips from Consumer Reports for avoiding or dealing with problems:

¢ Pay with a major credit card. It might give you recourse if problems arise. If you’ve bought expensive jewelry, have it valued by an appraiser certified by the American Society of Appraisers (www.appraisers.org or 800-272-8258).

¢ If you suspect you’ve been taken, contact the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (www.jvclegal.org). For $75, its dispute-resolution service mediates between buyers and sellers.

Here are some tips from Consumer Reports on choosing a beautiful bauble:

¢ Check the four C’s. In descending order, value of a diamond is based on cut, color, clarity and carat (weight). Diamonds and other gemstones can be mined or made in a lab. It’s nearly impossible to tell the difference, but an ethical dealer will reveal if a stone is synthetic or has been treated. Most jewelers adhere to the Gemological Institute of America’s grading system, but you’ll need help interpreting it.

¢ Know your karats. The price of gold varies with karat number (a unit of fineness), weight, design, finishing (by hand versus machine) and country of origin. Pure gold (24 karat) is too soft to be molded into jewelry, so it’s mixed with other metals. Changes in gold’s color result from the metal mix-in. Anything less than 10 karat (about 42 percent gold) can’t be sold as gold, so look for the karat mark. The terms “fill,” “overlay” or “electroplate” indicate a thin gold coating.

¢ Seek a certified gemologist. Buy jewelry from a certified gemologist belonging to a group such as the GIA, Jewelers of America or the American Gem Society.

¢ Online buys can be tarnished. You might save money by buying online, but you won’t see the jewelry firsthand, gem and mounting might be sold a la carte, and sizing could cost extra. To find out how other consumers have fared, check out www.diamondtalk.com and www.pricescope.com.

¢ Dubious discounts. Don’t buy promises of huge discounts on jewelry. According to one dealer, 95 percent of the discounts he sees are fictitious because the pieces are vastly overpriced to begin with.

¢ Consider the source. Under a voluntary international system, the diamond industry has agreed to keep a paper trail as diamonds move from mine to store. The system isn’t perfect, but it can help buyers avoid “blood diamonds” that have financed conflicts in Africa. Ask to see a written invoice that comes with every stone.

There’s also an international effort to ensure that gold-mining operations respect human rights and the environment.

For a list of retailers that support the campaign, go to www.nodirtygold.org.