Three years ago, while on Christmas vacation in Minnesota, Eric Schmidt walked into a coffee shop; it changed the course of his life. The coffee was the best and freshest he’d ever tasted.

“There were lots of customers but no lines. We were served quickly, and the place was inviting and comfortable,” he recalls.

A coffee-roaster took pride of place, and Eric was fascinated as he watched the beans being roasted.

“Martha, I want to do this.”

“Do what?” asked his wife.

“I want to own a coffee shop like this.”

“You have a well-paying job you enjoy,” she countered.

“I know, but this is what I want to do.”

The place was named Dunn Bros (without punctuation) after Eric and Dan Dunne. They shared a passion for fresh roasted coffee and opened their first shop in St. Paul, Minn., in 1987. The Schmidts learned the company had extended to other states and franchises were available. Before Eric finished his coffee, the process for starting the Lawrence shop began.

After months searching for the right location, the green building at 1618 W. 23rd St., formerly known as Pat’s Blue Ribbon Barbecue, became available. Eric resigned from his job, and with help from co-owners Dan and Ann Ernst, started the remodeling process. Each Dunn Bros franchise can be different, but Eric had been captivated by the original store and decided to replicate it. Like that one, the roaster in the Lawrence location takes center stage, and coffee sacks from places like Kenya, Ethiopia, Peru, Brazil and Guatemala are placed near it.

A double-sided fireplace promises warmth in winter, and outside seating takes advantage of summer sunshine. Magazines are available, but newspapers have to be purchased. Two laptops, with free Internet access, sit on a side bar counter. For folks like me, who like comfortable luxury, there are plenty of armchairs with discreet side tables to hold cups and snacks. Other tables and chairs are available for those who like to sit more upright.

Shannon Craft, who has worked there since opening day, loves to roast.

“We roast between 50 and 150 pounds of beans daily,” she explained. “Coffee served and sold here (in bags) is less than four days old. It’s our promise to customers.”

Annette Oh, a native of Korea, and director of choral activities and assistant professor of music at Ottawa University, chipped in:

“I’ve been around many places in town, and this one’s special,” she says. “I think they serve the best and freshest decaf Americana in town, and you are served quickly.”

She’s in the process of completing her doctorate and she comes to Lawrence every day, except Friday, for the coffee.

“I even use the drive-through on Sundays on my way to church,” she added.

Eric had just returned from a trip to Guatemala with other Dunn Bros franchise owners. He experienced the coffee-growing process first-hand and had opportunities to meet farming families who were part of Unitrade, (a type of co-op coffee company which supports small farms and gives a fair market price for the beans.)

“It was great to travel with other franchise owners and meet those who produce the beans we roast here every day. It’s encouraging to see how the smaller farms are supported,” he said.

More than 70 percent of morning business at the 23rd Street location is drive-through. There’s enough staff to certify the two-minute rule prevails; all customers need to be served within that time.

“We try to ensure people don’t have to wait,” Eric said.

I tested this rule on visits over several days; it worked.

Staff knew how to make and serve tea from a very limited selection of Mighty Leaf teabags.

“Have you any plans to extend your tea offerings like some of the other businesses in the area?” I asked.

“We offer a few more in winter, but our main specialty is coffee,” Eric said.

I discovered first-hand that coffee shops can change people. Over several visits, I ventured into iced versions of green and black teas, and eventually sampled a carmello latte. My husband, who’s resisted the charms of tea, and usually sticks to water, was eventually seduced by one of the signature IceCremas.

We agreed they’re addictive, and we’ll return for more.

Service: 5 Ambience: 5: Coffee 5: Tea: 1.