Some foods belong to the season. This is certainly true of the summer produce that comes from the garden, and it also applies to the deep-flavored and stick-to-the-ribs dishes that are so appealing on a cold winter evening.

Certain soups fall into this category. In winter, I like a soup with substance that can serve as a meal in itself. Stews are in this category, but there’s one meatless soup that earns this distinction as well. That’s French onion soup.

This is one of the first “dinner soups” I learned to make. When I was a college student, French onion soup was appealing because its ingredients were relatively cheap, it was simple, and it offered a way to use up a stale loaf of crusty bread. I’ve made it with a number of cheeses, my favorite being a mix of mozzarella and Parmesan.

I ran across the recipe below in “The Soup Bible,” a compilation of soup recipes that has been through multiple printings in England but has been enormously popular in the United States and Australia as well. Recipes are given in both metric and imperial measures. It’s a pretty book, with elegant photography and a broad variety of recipes with an international focus.

This French onion soup is fairly basic, but unlike most recipes, which anticipate two to four servings, this one offers proportions for a dinner party. This one also can be served shortly after being assembled, unlike onion soups that require baking.

Canned beef broth can be substituted for stock.

French Onion Soup

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 large onions, finely sliced

2 to 5 garlic cloves

1 teaspoon sugar

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

2 tablespoons plain flour

1/2 cup dry white wine

9 cups beef stock

2 tablespoons brandy (optional)

6 to 8 thick slices French bread, toasted

3 cups Gruyere or Emmenthal cheese, grated

In a large, heavy saucepan or flameproof casserole, heat the butter and oil over a medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 10 to 12 minutes until they are softened and beginning to brown.

Putting one garlic clove aside, finely chop the rest and add to the onions. Add the sugar and thyme and continue cooking over a medium heat for 30 to 35 minutes until the onions are well-browned, stirring frequently.

Sprinkle the flour and stir until well-blended. Stir in the wine and stock and bring to a boil. Skim off any foam that rises to the surface, then reduce the heat and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Stir in the brandy, if using.

Preheat the grill. Rub each slice of toasted French bread with the remaining garlic clove. Place six or eight ovenproof soup bowls on a baking sheet and fill about three-quarters full with the onion soup.

Float a piece of toast in each bowl. Top with grated cheese, divided evenly, and grill about 6 inches from the heat for about 3 to 4 minutes until the cheese begins to melt and bubble. Serve piping hot.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.