While in past taste tests of wines we were able to find several merlots that combined quality with low price to earn them distinction as CR Best Buys, only one cabernet sauvignon made that grade in our most recent assessment.

In our ratings of wines, we concentrate on bottles that sell for $20 or less, though we include a few more expensive ones.

Our highest-rated cabernet sauvignon from this year’s tests – and the only CR Best Buy – was Columbia Crest Grand Estates Columbia Valley 2002. This Washington state wine sells for $11 a bottle and impressed our expert tasters with its full flavor and “big” sensory presence. Other very good cabs were: Concha y Toro Marques de Casa Puente Alto Concha 2004 ($19, from Chile); Sterling Vineyards Napa Valley 2002 ($25, from California); Franciscan Oakville Estate Napa Valley 2003 ($28, from California); and Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Sonoma, Napa, Mendocino 2003 ($16, from California).

Merlots that retain our recommendation from previous tests are top-rated Gallo of Sonoma Reserve Sonoma County 2003 ($15, from California) and four CR Best Buys: Bogle Vineyards 2004 ($9, from California); Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo 2005 ($9, from Chile); Jacob’s Creek 2005 ($8, from Australia); and Yellow Tail 2005 ($7, from Australia).

While all these wines are ready for drinking now, you may want to consider cellaring the Jacob’s Creek merlot to better integrate its flavors.