Fifty-five degree water temperatures seem to be the breaking point for dealing with a pond. The fish are too cold to be fed, and we are too warm to be that cold, but it’s time to prepare the water garden for the winter.

Full pond cleanup should only be for the seriously neglected pond. You should net out the big stuff, but unless you cover the pond from leaves and blown debris, a detail cleaning now will be effort lost. Keep the leaves out as best you can and wait for spring cleaning.

Turn off all the pumps. Back-flush and drain the bio-filter, remove and clean any other filters you may have, and drain all hoses and piping of water. Ice formation in the lines will break them, and ice formation within the rocks on the waterfall will force them out of place and may channel water where you don’t want it come spring. Reduce the water level in the pond itself to just below the lowest rock layer. As the surface freezes over, the expansion of the ice has the potential of pushing these away from their desired position. Place the pump somewhere to keep it from freezing. This can even be left in the pond if it is deep enough.

Kansas has a 24-inch frost line, meaning the worst Kansas winter will not freeze below this line. If there is an average or mild winter, this line is much closer to the surface.

As the pond freezes over, gasses will build up under the ice. These are toxic to the fish. A small pump, set close to the surface, will act as a bubbler to keep an opening in the ice, providing winter interest and access for wildlife. For the bubbler, be sure you have access to the filter on the pump inlet, or make it a large enough filter to last the winter. Floating de-icers use more energy but avoid the filter issue.

Some plants require placement as far under the ice as possible, while others are allowed to freeze solid. Before any plant is set down into the water, trim it up as best you can. This lessens the decaying debris and gas buildup. Repotting now, for any plant, is not recommended.

Floating plants like water hyacinths should be removed. Lotus, water lilies and hawthorn must be placed as deep as possible; 18 to 24 feet is recommended. Tropical lilies, no matter how deep, will not survive outside. Pennywort, parrot feather, thalia dealbata and other zone 6 plants also can stay in the pond for winter. Set the top of the pot at least 12 inches deep or as deep as you can. Iris, rushes and sedges do much better if they freeze solid. These will winter well in the same place they have been growing all year. Pickerel rush is an exception to this and should be set at least 9 inches deep.

The fish will still want to eat. But after 55 degrees, their digestive system shuts down and eating becomes harmful. Stop feeding the fish when the water temperature is 55 degrees or less. The fish will slow their movements and go to the bottom, where they will spend the winter. Any late fall warmth may bring them back up. Do not be fooled; do not feed them.

Ice and snow on the winter pond is a marvelous sight, beauty not built but freely provided by Mother Nature. Enjoy this view knowing you have a jump-start on spring.