On the list of traditional summer side dishes, many people would put potato salad at the top of the list. No picnic table would be complete without a big Tupperware bowl of potato salad, right next to the coleslaw and baked beans.

It occurred to me the other day, however, that potato salad works even better as a fall food. I found myself in a picnic situation and there, on cue, was the potato salad. This time, though, the seasons were out of sync. It was not the Fourth of July but the middle of September. Even so, the potato salad seemed like it belonged there.

The reasons to eat potato salad in the fall are many. Potato salad is a substantial side dish that can be prepared on the weekend and eaten gradually through the week. As may of us scramble to begin another school year, leftovers and easy meals are a welcome part of the routine.

As the weather turns cooler, root vegetables also seem like a natural component of the diet. I realize that potatoes are harvested in mid-summer, which traditionally has made them available for eating in late June and July, but the association of autumn with crops that grow underground makes potato salad a more versatile dish than we give it credit for.

To fully appreciate potato salad, though, we need to think beyond the mustard-laced potato salad that contains no other flavors. People will notice that they are eating potato salad if it turns out not to taste like the potato salad they were expecting.

One of my favorite recipes calls for a mint and feta cheese dressing. While this recipe, which I received from a friend and published years ago to much acclaim, calls for new or fingerling potatoes, I have made it with tender red potatoes as well.

Another recipe worth trying, which is from “The Complete Cooking Light Cookbook,” uses portobello mushrooms. Both are exceptionally easy to prepare.

Carol’s Mint and Feta potato salad

2 pounds new or fingerling potatoes

4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

1/3 cup olive oil

3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

1/4 cup shallot or red onion, thinly sliced and chopped into 1-inch pieces

1 teaspoon fresh dill, chopped

1/2 teaspoon ground pepper

Boil or steam the potatoes until tender. If necessary, cut them into half-inch pieces.

Meanwhile, in a small bowl, mix the olive oil, mint, onion, dill and pepper.

Drain the potatoes and place them in a large bowl. Add the feta cheese and dressing and toss.

Chill for two hours before serving, to allow the flavors to merge.

Makes 6 servings.

Potato-Portobello Salad

5 cups (1/4-inch thick) sliced red potato (about 2 1/4 pounds)

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

3 tablespoons lemon juice

2 tablespoons capers

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1/2 teaspoon dried basil

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon dried tarragon

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

8 garlic cloves, minced

2 portobello mushroom caps, thinly sliced

Place potato in a large saucepan and cover with water. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat, and simmer 10 minutes or until potato is tender; drain. Cool.

Combine green onions, parsley, lemon juice, capers, olive oil and next 6 ingredients in a large bowl. Add potato and mushrooms, and toss well.

Makes 8 servings.