Despite chilly nights and the threat of sleet or snow, now is the time to prune fruit trees in the garden with spring a month away.

Broken or damaged limbs need to be removed, wild suckers need to be minimized and fruit needs to be low to the ground for easy management and harvest.

Here are some tips to get fruit trees ready for spring:

Seasonal maintenance pruning is different from major “out-of-control” rescue pruning. Timely maintenance pruning is simple and begins with the top and works its way down.

First, remove the dead or diseased branches. They only expend energy with little to no fruit production. Next, remove branches that are crisscrossing or are growing up through the middle of the canopy. These branches shade the lower ones and limit fruit production. Finally, clip back branches that are too tall and are not easily reached. Encouraging new branches closer to the ground makes management and harvest more enjoyable.

The major “out-of-control” pruning is a more daunting task, usually a two- to three-year process. Begin by removing one-third of the oldest, largest limbs called scaffold branches. Thinning the branch load will increase fruit production. Next, remove at least one-third of the remaining limbs that form the canopy. Be aware, however, the drastic “hacking” usually sends the tree into shock and promotes sucker-type growth that needs to be removed throughout the gardening season.

In the second year, continue to remove scaffold branches until there are three to five sturdy branches remaining. Continue to remove limbs from the canopy and remember to keep the sucker or water-sprouts trimmed off. Finally, the third year brings success, and only a light maintenance pruning should be required for maximum fruit production. Although it may sound and look like tree abuse, it is the only way to resurrect an old neglected tree.

When the chainsaw and pruners are put away, pruning paints or sealants don’t need to be applied. Designed to keep moisture and decay organisms out, they actually can trap moisture behind them, resulting in wood rot.

The best method of sealing a wound is by making a good pruning cut. The swollen area where the branch attaches to the tree is called the branch collar. If a pruning cut is made to the outside of the branch collar — that is the branch collar is left on the tree — the wound will heal nicely in a matter of two to three growing seasons. A good pruning cut allows the tree to heal quickly and safely in a rather short time.

The final step is the application of dormant oils or lime sulfur. Several seasonal pests can be controlled this time of year. Make sure, however, you read and follow all the label directions on the product you choose.

Fruit trees are an investment of time and money. However, the payoff is a bumper crop of fresh apples, peaches, pears or cherries. Although the calendar says it’s winter, the gardening journal says it’s time to prune. So bundle up and head out to enjoy the brisk fresh air. Start with a good maintenance pruning and end with the application of a dormant oil-type spray.