Finding the Midwest’s best

Editor tracks down region's top sites, from Black Hills to Great River Road

? Dan Kaercher thinks it’s time Midwesterners start tooting their own horn — and if they won’t do it, he will.

“I do feel like the Midwest just doesn’t get our due,” he said.

As editor of Midwest Living, he spent two months last summer visiting his favorite places in the region — nearly 60 spots in 12 states — for the magazine’s annual “Best of the Midwest” edition, out this week.

Some of the sites were featured in a special on Iowa Public Television, which will air more of Kaercher’s trip in at least six half-hour shows in December or January, said Duane Huey, the show’s executive producer. A book about the trip, “Best of the Midwest: Rediscovering America’s Heartland,” (Globe Pequot Press, $19.95) is due out in May.

“It is kind of his travel journal and can also be used as a practical travel guide,” said Liza Byron, publicist for the publisher. “It has maps, directions and current phone numbers.”

Kaercher, 55, of Urbandale, Iowa, covered 10,605 miles during his trek.

His favorite places range from the Black Hills of South Dakota to Iowa’s Great River Road, a scenic drive along the Mississippi River bluffs.

But he mentions more obscure places, too, like the Flower and Herb Barn Nursery near Bear Wallow Hill, Ind., which works on the honor system — a sign tells customers to dig up what they want if the owners are not around and leave the money or pay later. Also included are the Missouri River Lodge, near Stanton, N.D., a bed-and-breakfast owned by a man Kaercher says is a walking encyclopedia on Lewis and Clark, and Westminster College in Fulton, Mo., where sections of the Berlin Wall are on display.

A slower pace

He took a step back in time on Mackinac Island, Mich., where he visited the 118-year-old Grand Hotel, with its stately veranda flanked by tall white columns.

“It’s unlike anywhere else,” said Ken Hayward, spokesman for the Grand Hotel. “It’s on an island with no automobiles, it’s family-run and when you put all those things together that’s what creates a real unique experience.”

To get to the island, guests must take a ferry or small plane. Then, to reach the hotel, you can walk, ride a bicycle or catch a horse-drawn carriage. The slower pace allows for tea on the veranda and five-course meals in the formal dining room.

Meals — that’s one thing Kaercher was sure to enjoy along the way.

Fruit pies in Iowa and Minnesota, Chicago’s deep-dish pizza, barbecue from St. Louis and Cornish “pasties” (meat-and-vegetable pies) from Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. He gained 4 pounds every two weeks he was on the road.

In St. Louis, he gorged on a local dish now popping up in neighboring states: Toasted ravioli has been served since 1947 at Charlie Gitto’s restaurant in the city’s Italian district known as The Hill.

Here’s what Dan Kaercher had to say about his stop last August in Lawrence:”Today we began leg 3 of our journey here in Lawrence, Kansas. Lawrence is a driving university community with a long history that goes back to the Civil War, a time when most of Lawrence’s citizens were originally from New England.”After spending the night at the Circle S Ranch and Country Inn outside of town, we visited the Kansas University campus, the Dole Center (honoring Senator Robert Dole) and the wonderful bookstores and shops along Massachusetts Street downtown.”We finished off our afternoon with a delicious lunch at the famous Free State Brewing Company, which opened in 1989 as the first legal brewery in Kansas in over 100 years.”Now we’re off to Council Grove in the heart of Kansas and the beautiful Flint Hills.”Kaercher’s other stops in Kansas included the Hayes House in Council Grove, the Eisenhower Presidential Library and Museum in Abilene, and the Konza Prairie Biological Station near Manhattan.

It was created when a chef at the restaurant, which at the time was called Angelo’s, accidentally dropped some freshly made ravioli in bread crumbs and decided to deep-fry it.

People from all over come in requesting the dish, Gitto said. “They love it,” he said.

Big cities, small towns

Kaercher hopes Midwesterners will take advantage of what’s in their back yard.

“The old cliche is the Midwest is ‘flyover country,’ but there is so much more here,” Kaercher said.

On his travels, Kaercher visited the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame and Museum in Cleveland; the Auburn Cord Duesenberg Museum, which features hundreds of classic cars, in Auburn, Ind.; and the Spam Museum, a tribute to the canned meat, in Austin, Minn.

Another hidden Midwestern treasure is the peninsula of Door County, Wis., which Kaercher calls the “Cape Cod of the Midwest.” At its widest point, the peninsula is about 75 miles across, said Jon Jarosh, spokesman for Door County Chamber of Commerce.

Kaercher didn’t snub the big cities. In Chicago, he visited Wrigley Field, where the Chicago Cubs play, and stopped by the Art Institute, where he saw Iowa native Grant Wood’s “American Gothic,” the world-famous painting of a farmer with a pitchfork standing with a woman in front of a cottage.

In suburban Minneapolis, Minn., Kaercher went to the Mall of America, a 4.2 million-square-foot shopping mall with an indoor amusement park and enough restaurants and stores to satisfy every indulgence.

“People know their own state so well, but they aren’t aware of the great things in the state right next to them,” Kaercher said. “You don’t have to go thousands of miles to see stuff.”