When we talk about soup, we need to define our terms. That’s because soup can be divided into two general categories, namely the fast-cooking and the slow-cooking, and the differences between them can be substantial. While soup is generally regarded as an easy thing to prepare, the time it spends on the stove has a lot to do with what ultimately gets ladled into the bowl.

I define a fast-cooking soup as one that can be prepared in two hours or less. Lighter soups appropriate for spring or summer fall into this category, as do soups with a creamy base, which can’t simmer longer than necessary. As a general rule, a fast-cooking soup consists of ingredients that are complementary or present interesting contrasts in flavor and texture.

In a slow-cooking soup, by comparison, distinctions in texture become unimportant and the flavors develop and merge during the simmer. The idea is that the flavors that emerge in a slow-cooked soup can be had only in the time it takes to cook the soup.

The signature achievement of a slow-cooked soup is the broth, and in a meat and vegetable soup two ingredients are most likely to produce that unique depth of flavor. They are celery and bone.

A good soup bone contributes the earthy flavor that canned soup stock only dreams about.

The following recipe, from a Denver Junior League cookbook, is one for a cool autumn Sunday. Like any good, slow-cooking soup, it is the sum of its parts. I have, however, made this soup without adding the wine at the end, and it was tasty just the same.

Coach House Black Bean Soup

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1 pound black beans

2 1/2 quarts water

5 strips bacon, cut in small pieces

2 stalks celery, chopped

2 medium onions, chopped

2 tablespoons flour

rind and bone from smoked ham or

2 smoked ham hocks, split

3 pounds beef bones

3 sprigs parsley

2 bay leaves

2 cloves garlic, halved

2 carrots, cut in pieces

2 parsnips, chopped

1/4 teaspoon ground pepper

2 teaspoons salt

3/4 cup Madeira

2 hard-cooked eggs

lemon slices, sprinkled with parsley

Wash beans, cover with cold water and soak overnight. Drain and wash again. Place them in a pot and add 2 1/2 quarts water. Cover and simmer 90 minutes.

Cook bacon in a heavy kettle for a few minutes. Add celery and onion and cook until tender; do not brown. Blend in flour and cook, stirring for 1 minute. Add ham and beef bones, parsley bay leaves, garlic, carrots, parsnips, pepper, salt and beans with the cooking liquid.

Cover and simmer over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 4 hours. Add more water, if necessary.

Remove bones and ham rind or ham hocks and blend half of the soup in blender. Remove any meat from ham bone or hocks, chop fine and return to soup. Add blended soup. Add wine and chopped eggs. Mix well.

Garnish with lemon. Makes 8 servings.