Most Thanksgiving dinners are celebrations of excess. Even though we eat way too much, we also have a lot of food left over when we’re done. So the task on Friday will be disposing of the leftovers quickly and painlessly.

Nothing serves this purpose quite like a good recipe for turkey hash. The beauty of turkey hash is that it can be the repository not only for leftover turkey but also for leftover stuffing. This is the sort of efficient use of resources that makes us feel like smart and thrifty consumers.

Now, if we could work leftover cranberry sauce into the mix, that would really be impressive.

Turkey hash also is praiseworthy because it pulls no punches. The only reason a cook would ever make turkey hash is because of Thanksgiving leftovers. This is not a dressed-up post-Thanksgiving dish — like, say, turkey tetrazzini — that pretends to be something it’s not. What we’re talking about here is the honest, unadorned use of a refrigerator full of leftovers.

Over the years I have eaten various turkey hashes, and the ones I’ve liked best have been fashioned after a recipe in James Beard’s “American Cookery.” The results will taste different depending on what kind of stuffing you made, as well as the other ingredients you add. Let’s face it: This is hash and you can adjust the ingredients anyway you want — although adding cranberry sauce may not be advisable.

I also like this hash because it is made in the skillet. I have made recipes that called for baking the hash in a casserole, but using a skillet allows greater control over how wet the hash will be and also makes it possible to adjust seasonings.

Personally, I prefer this hash either without the olives or with fewer olives. It also can be served with poached eggs.

Turkey hash

5 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1/2 green pepper, finely chopped

3 cups diced turkey

1 cup stuffing

salt and freshly ground pepper

2/3 cup pitted black olives

1/2 cup toasted almonds

2/3 cups heavy cream

chopped parsley

Melt the butter and saute the onion, garlic and pepper until they are limp and delicately brown. Add the turkey and stuffing and toss well with the onion and green pepper. Salt and pepper to taste. Allow the mixture to cook over medium heat until thoroughly warmed through.

Turn and blend the mixture well, and add the almonds and olives. Dribble the cream over all, and let the hash cook down thoroughly until nicely blended and piping hot. Add chopped parsley and serve.

Makes 4 servings