Concord, N.H. ? For vegetarians, Thanksgiving often is about the sides, and most of those sides are about as carbohydrate rich as it gets. All those rolls, mashed potatoes, stuffings, cranberry sauces and pies are enough to put a person into a carb coma.

That’s just fine by me. The holidays are no time to diet. A little moderation, a little indulgence and a lot of enjoyment are the key to a healthy and happy holiday season.

Let’s talk turkey, or not. The answer to the perennial question of what a vegetarian puts at the center of the Thanksgiving table is simple. If carnivores are coming, there needs to be a turkey.

Remember, this holiday is about coming together in celebration around the table and is deeply rooted in traditions. For many people turkey is a vital part of those traditions; now isn’t the time to try to convert Aunt Clara.

With or without a turkey, the next question is whether to have a vegetarian turkey stand-in, some sort of main course as impressively dominant as a roasted bird. I generally am against this.

First, the fake options usually look and taste just that. I’ve yet to try a tofu bird that had any flavor. Second, so long as there is a healthy assortment, a variety of sides usually is sufficient.

Don’t think of this as settling for a second-rate dinner. Even in my turkey days, I always felt the best part of the meal was everything that went with the meat…. Which brings us back to the carbs.

Rolls

Let’s start with the rolls. They are a must. For a great selection of recipes, try Ken Haedrich’s “Home for the Holidays” (Galahad Books, 1992). We make his whole-wheat parker house rolls every year.

Sassy Cranberry Sauce, front, is a colorful vegetarian dish on the Thanksgiving table, as are mashed potatoes with gravy, rear.

To make preparation a bit easier on the big day, bake your rolls a few weeks in advance. Once they cool, wrap eight or 10 at a time in foil and freeze. Place the foil packets in a 300-degree oven 20 minutes before you’re ready to eat.

Also, be sure to offer butter and soy margarine, as no one should be left out of the guilty pleasure of slathering.

Potatoes

Next, the potatoes. Do whatever else you like with them, but there must be mashed on hand. The folks at Cook’s Illustrated magazine say russet potatoes make the fluffiest mashed potatoes, but Yukon Golds are nice, too.

Their recipe calls for butter and cream. Vegans should have no trouble substituting soy margarine and plain soy milk. My family generally has two versions — with dairy and without.

Sweet potatoes are another traditional side. But rather than goop them up with sugar, go savory and try this recipe for cumin-roasted sweet potatoes from Rose Elliot’s “New Vegetarian Cooking” (Simon & Schuster, 2003, $19.95)

Gravy

Vegetarian gravies are easier than they sound. Start with this base and season as desired: Saute half an onion, a bit of minced garlic and a cup of thinly sliced button mushrooms in 1/4 cup olive oil until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes.

Add 1/4 cup flour and 2 tablespoons of soy sauce and simmer, stirring constantly, until a thick paste forms. Cook, stirring constantly, another 2 to 3 minutes. Add 2 cups of vegetable broth and bring to a simmer. Season as desired, starting with salt and pepper. Sage is nice, too.

The rest

And it’s not Thanksgiving without stuffing. Since it generally isn’t considered safe to cook stuffing inside the turkey anyway, make life easy and bake your favorite recipe in a covered casserole dish.

If your recipe calls for meat broth, substitute vegetable and don’t tell anyone. Most people won’t know the difference.

Sassy cranberry sauce

(Preparation 30 minutes)

3 cups (12-ounce bag) fresh cranberries

3 cups chopped pears (about 2 medium pears)

1 cup orange juice or apple juice

1/2 cup dried, unsweetened cherries

1/2 cup golden raisins

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons minced crystallized ginger (also called candied ginger)

1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom

Combine all ingredients in a large saucepan. Cover and bring to a gentle boil over a medium-low flame. Cook 12 minutes. Uncover, reduce heat to a simmer and cook until sauce thickens, about 5 minutes. Transfer the sauce to a heatproof bowl and cool 10 minutes. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour before serving. Makes 3 cups.