Greens are among the first garden vegetables to be harvested each spring, signaling the beginning of the fresh-salad season. This also is our best opportunity to enjoy fresh spinach, which is more tender and milder in flavor when it’s eaten in season and soon after it’s picked.

I have a theory that spinach never would have developed a bad reputation, particularly among children, if it never had been boiled. This description includes fresh spinach that has been ruined by overcooking and canned and frozen spinach, which turns to mush during processing.

When most people first confronted spinach, they found a pile of green pulp on the side of their plates, about as endearing as a clump of seaweed washed up on the beach. I remember thinking as a child that canned spinach had a metallic flavor to it.

When, some years later, I ate spinach prepared differently, I was pleasantly surprised.

Spinach is at its finest when it’s picked while the flavor is still mellow and before the leaves turn rubbery. At this point spinach is a prime salad or sandwich ingredient, but it also can be used in a variety of dishes.

Following are two simple fresh-spinach recipes that are made to order for people who think they don’t like spinach. The egg recipe came from Gourmet last year, while the saute is from Julie Russo’s “Great Good Food.” The latter recipe is a good one to serve to children.

Creamy Scrambled Eggs with Spinach

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8 large eggs

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon or 1/4 teaspoon dried tarragon, crumbled

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

3/4 pound baby spinach, coarsely chopped

2 ounces cold cream cheese, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

Whisk together eggs and tarragon in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Melt butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat, then cook spinach, stirring occasionally, until just wilted.

Add egg mixture and cream cheese and cook, stirring slowly, until eggs are just set, about 3 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

Sauteed Spinach with Ginger

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1 1/2 cups fresh orange juice

2 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger

1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 pound fresh spinach, trimmed and washed (leave water clinging to leaves)

freshly ground pepper

In a skillet, bring the orange juice and ginger to a boil over medium-high heat. Boil until the liquid is reduced to approximately 1/2 cup. Stir in the lemon juice and set aside.

Place the spinach in a large, heavy pot. Cover and cook over medium heat, tossing once or twice, until wilted, about 3 minutes. Drain and return to the pot. Add the orange juice and saute for 30 seconds. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.