Archive for Sunday, May 9, 2004

Seasonal fragrances are floral, fruity

May 9, 2004


— Many people already divide their wardrobes into categories of "day" and "night," and it seems as if they may start doing the same with their fragrances.

According to the spring-summer trend report by the Fragrance Foundation, the nonprofit, educational arm of the fragrance industry, women will continue to choose light floral scents for daytime use and more romantic deep florals and orientals at night.

Men, meanwhile, will stick with clean daytime fragrances -- especially those with aquatic notes -- and more woody and oriental scents for evening. Here is a sampling of the season's new women's fragrances:

  • Boucheron's Trouble. An oriental scent inspired by "unpredictable" women such as Mata Hari and Josephine Baker. It has a signature of jasmine, orange-scented flowers, amber and blue cedar.
  • Chanel's Gardenia. This is a reintroduction of the first single-scent fragrance, first launched in 1935 by Coco Chanel and perfumer Ernest Beaux.
  • Yves Saint Laurent's L'eau D'ete Opium. Literally translated, this is "the water of summer" featuring Opium's classic spicy blend of mandarin orange, star jasmine and gold amber.
  • Hermes Paris' Eau de Merveilles. The emphasis of this new eau de toilette is the woody amber accents, including oak extract, while citrus notes help the fragrance maintain its femininity.
  • Escada Island Kiss. Mango, passion fruit and orange are topped with magnolia, white peach and hibiscus and rounded off with blonde wood and musk.
  • Dessert's Deliciously Kissable Love Potion Fragrance. The core of Jessica Simpson's new fragrance and body care collection is available in three "flavors" -- a vanilla bean-caramel blend, milk chocolate with coconut and a berry bouquet of strawberries, raspberries and greens.
  • Gucci Envy Sun Mist. An alcohol-free fragrance inspired by vine flowers with green notes. The base has wood, musks and iris.
  • Charles Jourdan. Using aphrodisiac notes, the scent opens with basil, armoise and asparagus with mango, peach and plumberry, and has a heart built around a lava accord. It's anchored by amber with patchouli, sandalwood, cumin and coffee absolute.
  • L'Occitane Mimosa. Mimosa, the first spring bloom in Cote d'Azur, France, is the base note of this fragrance. It's embellished by top notes of bergamot and spices and has a base of cedar and sandalwood.
  • Fleur de Sephora. A new collection of seven new fragrances that mix single flowers with a spicy note to form a "duet." The choices include blue lotus flower with water grass, red hibiscus with cedar, rose with musk, magnolia with patchouli, peony with raspberry, orchid with cardamon, and jasmine with green tea.
  • Bond No. 9's Eau de New York. This is supposed to be a liquid souvenir of the city, featuring a diverse mix of citrus, including grapefruit and neroli, gardenia, basil and verbena, and vetiver and oakmoss.
  • Black-Kenneth Cole for Her. A perfume that features an ultra-feminine floral bouquet, including white hyacinth, black violet, magnolia, tuberose, lotus flower, orris, sandalwood and sweet amber.

For men:

  • Aramis Ice. This cologne has a top note of synthetic aldehydics, offering coolness and freshness, a body of orange flower, lavender and patchouli, and a leatherlike base accord made of sandalwood and amber.
  • Tommy Summer Cologne. The newest fragrance from Tommy Hilfiger opens with verbena, lime, mandarin and a touch of green pepper. Cool spearmint and menthol, and spicy cinnamon and saffron are some of the lingering notes.
  • Chanel's Allure Homme Sport. Mandarin kicks off the citrus fragrance that also has a woody facet -- thanks to atlas cedar and vetiver -- and a spicy facet -- from black pepper.
  • Kouros Cologne Sport Eau D'ete. A tonic top note of frozen blue mint is added to the jasmine character and a cedarwood base.
  • M7 Fresh. This opens with tangy grapefruit and unfolds into a bitter orange and ginger heart and a woody note featuring earthy Haitian vetiver.
  • John Varvatos. A woody oriental that opens with West Indian tamarind tree leaves and date fruit, has a hear of coriander seed and clary safe flower, and a background of wood, balsamic, amber and leather undertones.
  • Givenchy Pour Homme Blue Label. This scent features a citrus opening, aquatic notes, and spice and wood undertones.
  • Davidoff Cool Water. Mint and ice tea sorbet accords are combined with spices for the top note, followed by a transparent floral heart heightened by water lily. The base features musk and incense.

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