Lemon appeal

Chefs praise fruit for versatility

In her book “Lemon Zest,” Lori Longbotham describes lemons as culinary treasures.

Would anyone argue the point? Lemons, which have been cultivated in Southeast Asia and the Mediterranean region since the first century, are found in nearly every cuisine in the world. In California, where more lemons are grown than in any other state, they are a major ingredient in culinary tradition.

Chefs love the versatility of fresh lemons.

“They work equally well in both sweet and savory dishes,” says Wendi Mentink, executive chef at Bidwell Street Bistro in Folsom, Calif.

“Of course, they are wonderful when paired with grilled fish, in a hollandaise or in a butter sauce for shellfish, but lemons also are wonderful in condiments like aioli or even in a salad dressing.”

Mentink recommends substituting lemon juice for vinegar when making dressings for spinach salads. The substitution will add a bright, fresh flavor that works perfectly with spinach.

“And the flavor of fresh lemons is wonderful in desserts,” Mentink says. “In my mind, you really can’t go wrong with lemon curd layered between puff pastry. It is one of finest desserts you can serve, with just enough tartness to keep it from being overly sweet. I love that contrast.”

If a lemon feels soft, don’t use it. Soft lemons have a metallic taste.

Also, if a recipe calls for lemon zest, which is grated or slivered lemon peel, make sure you grate only the yellow part of the peel, not the white pith between the peel and the pulp. The pith has a bitter flavor that will ruin your dish. One large lemon will yield two to three teaspoons of zest.

If you have extra lemon zest, it can be frozen or dried. To dry zest, place it on a paper towel and put it in a warm place such as the top of the refrigerator until it is completely dried.

Store dried zest in an airtight container.

Besides being packed with flavor and vitamin C, lemons have many other uses in the kitchen and around the house.

Here are a few:

  • Add a few drops of fresh lemon juice to cream as you whip it, and it will stiffen better and stay brighter.
  • Use lemon juice to make an emergency substitution for buttermilk in a recipe. Add a tablespoon of fresh lemon juice to a cup of milk and let it stand for five minutes or until it curdles.
  • Rub cut lemon on your hands to get rid of garlic odors and stains from cherries or beets.
  • A cotton ball dipped in lemon juice can remove water marks on alabaster or glass.
  • Some stains on tablecloths and fabrics that have been stored for a long time can be removed by rubbing the area with a cut lemon and letting it stand in sunshine for a few hours.
  • Polish copper with a piece of cut lemon dipped in coarse salt.
  • Toss cut apple, bananas, pear and avocado slices in lemon juice to prevent them from turning dark.
  • Place slices of lemon peel in a dish in the kitchen for a natural room deodorizer.
  • Poke holes in lemons with a nail, then stick whole cloves into the holes to make a pomander ball.
  • Toss pieces of lemon peel into the fireplace to give the fire a fresh scent.