Photojournalist cooks up new career in barbecue

? This spring, a 6-year-old girl spotted Rick Browne at a barbecue festival in Iowa, turned to her mother and said, “Oh, look, there’s Santa Claus.”

It was the first time anyone had noticed a resemblance. But given Browne’s round cheeks and belly, whitening mustache and beard, and affable manner, it wasn’t surprising.

These days, the award-winning photojournalist is as excited as a child at Christmas. He’s reveling in the gifts of unfolding success and celebrity in his newfound career in barbecue.

His travelogue cooking show, “Barbecue America,” which started last spring on public television, is entering its second season this month. A third season is in the works.

Armed with his “Ph.B.,” an honorary doctorate of barbecue philosophy given to him by the Kansas City Barbecue Society, he produces the 13 half-hour segments, distributed by American Public Television to about 180 stations.

“Rick Browne’s Barbecue America TV Cookbook,” a companion to the show and Browne’s fourth book on barbecue and deep-frying in five years, comes out this month. Another book on barbecue is in the making. And Browne’s folksy, homegrown style is striking a chord: Requests to appear on national television shows keep coming in.

What accounts for the success? “One hell of a lot of hard work. It’s my life now,” Browne said. He’d initially worked on his books and shows while holding down a full-time job as photo chief for his area’s daily newspaper.

“Last May, I resigned to follow my cookbook and television future,” said Browne, who had spent 35 years as a professional photographer, including a stint with The Associated Press.

No doubt, the self-taught barbecue specialist’s infectious enthusiasm and evangelism for outdoor cooking have helped.

“I really love barbecue. I love the way it bonds people and families,” Browne said, interviewed at his new customized 35-foot Georgie Boy motor home, temporarily parked at a shopping center.

Emblazoned on the outside are an oversized photo of Brown, the Barbecue America logo; logos from more than half-a-dozen sponsors; and images of his books and of Baxter the Beer-Butt Chicken, a chicken sitting on a beer can on a grill — the icon for his signature recipe for beer-can chicken which follows.

Beer-Butt Chicken

—-

Dry Rub:

1 teaspoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon dried summer savory

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon dry yellow mustard

1 tablespoon sea salt (ground fine)

1 large chicken (4 to 5 pounds)

Basting Spray:

One 12-ounce can of your favorite beer; fruit juice, wine or soda can be substituted

1 cup cider

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Preheat grill to medium heat (400 degrees to 500 degrees) for indirect cooking.

Mix the rub in a small bowl until it’s well incorporated. Set aside.

Wash, dry and season the chicken generously inside and out with the rub. Work the mixture well into the skin and under the skin wherever possible. Place in a medium bowl, cover, and set aside at room temperature from 20 to 30 minutes.

Pour half the can of beer or other liquid you’ve chosen into a spray bottle, add the cider, olive oil and vinegar, and set aside.

Take the beer can in one hand with the remaining liquid (half the beer) still inside and insert it vertically into the bottom end of the chicken while keeping the bird vertical as well. Place the chicken on the grill over indirect heat and use the legs, and the can itself, to form a tripod to hold the chicken upright. This positioning does two things: first, it helps drain off the fat as the chicken cooks; second, the beer steams the inside of the chicken, while the outside is cooked by the barbecue heat. Some people put a small potato or carrot in the neck opening of the chicken to keep the steam inside; I prefer to let it pass through.

Cook for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. During the cooking time, spray the chicken all round with the basting spray several times. The chicken is done when the internal temperature reaches 180 degrees. Carefully remove the bird, still perched on the can, and place it on a heatproof countertop. After your guests have reacted appropriately, remove the chicken from the beer can with tongs while holding the can with an oven mitt.

Give the chicken one more spritz of the basting spray, then carve and serve.

Makes 2 to 4 servings.