We admit it: Radishes aren’t everybody’s natural passion. And truth to tell, the hothouse ones seen year-round aren’t particularly exciting. But in season — and several varieties are in season right now — these root vegetables with an ancient origin have a lively flavor, a fine, firm texture and a bright complexion.

Used in cooking from the Orient to the Mediterranean, radishes have been around so long, there’s been speculation they were used by the Egyptians to feed their slaves.

Today, many varieties of radishes are grown, some shaped like globes, others like icicles — and they come in a range of sizes from tiny to substantial. Colors may include: white, red, pink, mauve and almost black.

One of the first vegetables to come to maturity in spring, radishes are high in potassium, extremely low in fat and calories, and an unexpected source of vitamin C.

• How to select. The freshly bunched red radishes of late spring and summer should be bright and firm. Bypass radishes with cracks or a spongy feel. Radish tops should be dark green — yellowing leaves are an indication of age. Varieties such as French breakfast radishes, which are long and cylindrical with oval ends, may be available now.
• How to store. Radishes should be eaten relatively soon after purchase or they will become bitter. They can be stored for several days in the refrigerator wrapped, loosely in plastic with their tops removed. The tops, which can be used in a stir-fry or salad if they are young, should be stored separately.
• How to prepare. Radishes are ordinarily eaten raw after they are washed, cleaned with a stiff vegetable brush and drained. They are usually not peeled, but taste milder if they have been. The leaves can be either sliced off completely or pared down to a decorative tuft. The radishes can be eaten whole, dipped into salt, or sliced, chopped or grated.

Radishes can also be roasted, sliced and served with olive oil, salt and pepper; or treated like turnips. They can be pickled.

Radishes, which are a good source of vitamin C, can add color and flavor to salads or can be eaten alone.