Joan Slote, a 75-year-old grandmother from San Diego, recently paid nearly $2,000 to the Bush administration as penalty for taking a bicycling tour of Cuba’s countryside.

“It really has changed a lot of my feelings about the government,” said Slote, who’s competed successfully as a bicyclist in three Senior Olympics. “I’ve always been very sweet and innocent about the whole thing: ‘We are the best in the world, blah blah blah.’ But having so much trouble with the Treasury Department … now I’m a lot more suspicious and somewhat disillusioned.”

When she took the trip in 2000, Slote said, she didn’t think she was doing anything wrong. In fact, the Canadian travel company from which she bought the ticket told her it was legal for Americans to travel to Cuba through a third country, she said.

On her way through customs in San Diego, when asked if she’d been anywhere other than Canada, she fessed up.

“There was no ulterior motive” for the trip, Slote said. “It was plain curiosity. … Had I known I was breaking the law, I wouldn’t have done it.”

After not hearing anything about her violation for a year, she said she received a letter saying she would be fined $7,639 — including a $180 penalty for the trinkets she brought back for her six grandchildren.

Joan Slote, 75, of San Diego, was told by a Canadian travel agent that it was legal for Americans to travel to Cuba through a third country. That advice was incorrect, and Slote had to pay the government ,905 for the mistake. She negotiated the settlement down from 0,742.50.

But her son was dying of cancer, and she didn’t make a timely response asking for a hearing.

Eventually, the fine grew to $10,742.50, she said.

She sought help from lawmakers, attorneys and the agency Global Exchange, and she recently settled with the government for $1,905. When she finally began writing installment checks, the government lost one of them and sent her name to a collection agency, she said.

She made sure the next replacement check was sent by registered mail.

“It’s the most frustrating experience I’ve ever had,” she said.

Audio interviews Harmless pursuits in Cuba draw unheard-of penalties No peace for the living Grandmother, 75, gets hassle of lifetime Medical delivery to nuns punished Religious mission not exempt from persecution U.S.-Cuba timelineLift the ban: www.cubacentral.com http://www.nlg.org/cuba/Keep the ban: www.canf.org www.cubanet.org/cubanews.html