Taos, N.M. ? From the art scene to the dramatic Rio Grande Gorge to towering mountain forests and earthy Indian homesteads, Taos is a traveler’s dream.

A first-time visitor, I was exhilarated by its diverse beauty, cultural offerings and outdoor activities. Not only is this small city steeped in history, but it is also a major artists’ colony and a four-season destination featuring everything from fall hikes to whitewater rafting in the warmer months to world-renowned skiing.

Taos is set at the base of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains in northern New Mexico, which derives its charm from a blend of American Indian, Spanish settler and Anglo pioneer heritage. My infatuation with the city began when I arrived at the Old Taos Guesthouse Bed and Breakfast. It is housed in a 180-year-old adobe home set on seven flower-filled, tree-shaded acres overlooking the mountains. The sunset views from the hot tub are amazing. And the day starts with delicious breakfasts of fresh-baked muffins and egg dishes typically doctored with cheese, chilies and spices. It would have been easy to sit on the patio, sipping coffee with a good book, but there was much to see.

Galleries abound on the city’s Town Square. Agnes Martin, the well-known Minimalist, lives in Taos; locals know her by the big white Cadillac she drives. Her stark white paintings hang at the Harwood Museum, along with other works by the painters who first settled in Taos and began its tradition as an arts center. I enjoyed seeing their interpretations of the surrounding landscapes, and then going out and comparing them with the actual sites.

The Millicent Rogers Museum is dedicated to the works of Hispanic and American Indian artists. Rogers, an heir to the Standard Oil fortune, fell in love with Taos. The museum houses her collection of jewelry, textiles, ceramics, sculpture, paintings and other objects. The museum’s religious art infuses the traditional European style of the Old Masters with the more primitive, colorful painting of Latin America and American Indians. The collection includes diverse depictions of the Virgin Mary.

Pueblo rituals

But don’t spend all your time visiting museums. A must-see is the Taos Pueblo, the 1,000-year-old home to the Tiwa-speaking American Indians. The brown squat houses are still made from mud and straw in the traditional manner and contrast beautifully with the surrounding mountains. There is no electricity or running water at the Pueblo and bread is still baked in outdoor domed ovens.

Shopping at the Pueblo gives you an opportunity to meet those who make the ceramics and turquoise jewelry that are sold all over town, and bargaining is easier there.

We visited during one of several annual “corn dances,” performed throughout the year to pray for a good harvest. About 40 women and three bare-chested men danced throughout the Pueblo while tribal elders chanted, drummed and shook rattles. These dances are authentic rituals, not just gimmicks for tourists, so no photos are allowed.

Taos, N.M., bottom center, is at the base of Taos Mountain, right, in the Sangre de Christo mountain range of northern New Mexico. Amid the natural beauty, visitors will find plenty of regional art and cuisine to enjoy.

Make sure to explore the mountains and Rio Grande that are so crucial to Taos’ identity. Many flock to Taos in winter to ski, although beginners and intermediates may find the terrain difficult. For nonskiers, locals say it’s best to visit Taos in the fall because summer crowds have vanished and the August rains revitalize the landscape. There’s great hiking through pine forests choked with wildflowers.

In summer or spring, you can whitewater-raft on the Rio Grande. (The water is not high enough in the fall.) It offers a different vantage point from which to see the river and mountains. During my late summer visit, I fell out of the raft for a split-second, and I’m not sure I relaxed enough during what was left of the ride to appreciate the views. Unexpected dunk aside, rafting was great fun and a terrific workout.

Other sites

The Rio Grande Gorge Bridge offers great views of the rushing river and the different gradations of the mountains as they slope to the bank. My friend and I decided we wanted a closer view so we hiked down to where the Rio Grande converges with the Red River. We drove to Wild Rivers Recreation Area, via what is known as the Enchanted Circle, which meanders through some velvety forests.

On the way we stopped at the Vietnam Veterans Memorial in Angel Fire. The memorial was initiated by a local man, Dr. Victor Westphall, whose son died in the war. Westphall and his wife used their son’s life insurance payment as seed money to build the memorial’s small white chapel. To this day, visitors leave personal notes and other remembrances on an altar adorned with a huge trident-shaped candelabra. A nearby hall exhibits moving home movies of soldiers, letters, photos and biographies.

A cemetery and bell tower are all that remains of the original St. Geronimo Church at the Taos Pueblo in Taos, N.M. The pueblo is the 1,000-year-old home to the Tiwa-speaking American Indian.

Continuing on to Wild Rivers, about 35 miles north of Taos, we discovered that the pamphlet we got about the place didn’t lie: The hike to the convergence was difficult. The trail was rocky, steep and slippery, but the vistas were beautiful and the riverbank was lush.

My only major gripe with Taos is that restaurants largely stop serving at 9 p.m. We had to cut posthike soaks in the hot tub short just to grab dinner. That said, there is a wide selection of restaurants. The best meal we had was lamb at the very elegant Lambert’s.

Orlando’s, a Mexican joint with its brightly painted interior, has a real party atmosphere. The margaritas, which are made with beer, are among the tastiest I’ve ever had.