A friend of mine recently got excited about fingerling potatoes. The potatoes he had tasted were prepared simply — coated in olive oil, seasoned with garlic and Italian herbs, and baked — and to hear him describe the experience, the potato had been reborn.

Fingerling potatoes, so named because they are slender and resemble a finger, catch people off guard because of their flavor and texture. Like new potatoes, they are tender and meant to be eaten with the skins on. I’ve heard the flesh described as waxy or creamy, which seems accurate to me. The meat of the potato has a smoothness to it that may even make adding butter seem unnecessary.

The degree of flavor differs with the variety. Most fingerling potatoes have yellow flesh and, like the full-sized Yukon Gold potatoes, have a subtle yet distinct flavor that stands on its own. This means that, unlike standard potatoes, fingerlings are not a neutral ingredient or side dish that can be taken for granted. Before combining them into dishes or seasoning them, it’s important to take account of their flavor.

I was disappointed with results one time when I placed springs of rosemary in the oven with baking fingerlings — something I do with red potatoes. The rosemary clashed with the flavor of the potatoes. If you want to do more than simply salt and pepper your fingerlings, the only way to figure out the seasoning for a given variety is to cook up a few and gauge the flavor.

Among the most common varieties of fingerling potatoes are Russians and Austrians, both of which have yellow flesh and tan or yellow skin. French varieties usually have red skin and may have yellow flesh marbled with red. Some other varieties have red skin and flesh. Look for fingerlings in produce departments that carry specialty vegetables or at farmers markets.

Fingerlings can be grown like regular potatoes. Plant them early in the spring from pieces of potato that have two or three eyes. If you use potatoes purchased in the grocery store for your sets, be sure they are organic. Grocers frequently spray potatoes with a chemical to impede sprouting.

• A warning about cocoa bean mulch arrived in my e-mail a few weeks ago. Cocoa bean mulch, which is made from the waste during chocolate production is poisonous to dogs. Dogs also are attracted to its sweet flavor, which presents a real hazard. According to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, eating nine ounces of cocoa bean mulch can kill a 50-pound dog.

Several gardeners have raved to me about cocoa bean mulch, not only as a weed barrier and moisture preserver, but also as a superb soil amendment particularly for soils that are high in clay. Being a cheapskate, I have never used it, because it’s fairly pricey — usually a few dollars more per bag than wood mulches — so my knowledge of it is second-hand. Given the danger to pets, however, I would suggest that local greenhouses and nurseries not carry this mulch next gardening season.