New York ? The pool of spring and summer fashions is overflowing with white, ruffled and oversized garments. But don’t wade too far into the retail racks and get caught up in the trends without considering your size and shape.

The guidelines are common sense: Play up assets and minimize weaknesses.

“Everyone has a sense of what they look best in and feel most comfortable in, regardless of size and fashion trends. My advice is stick to it and change minor details pattern or color to make it ‘new,”‘ says Sally Singer, the fashion news director at Vogue.

Runway fashion is helpful as an indication of upcoming color, print and overall looks but the actual styles then need to be related to the size of a store’s customers, says Robert Jezowski, executive vice president of Macy’s East ready-to-wear division.

Noting this season’s white shirts and denim jackets, Jezowski says the trends that stick typically are those that can be easily adapted to accommodate different shapes.

And even more important than individual fashion-forward pieces, a large retailer such as Macy’s focuses on themes because the black-and-white look or stripes are not size dependent, he says.

“We have everybody shopping in our store so the trends need to relate to them all,” Jezowski explains.

The good news about spring 2002 is that the styles are “realistic,” Singer says.

Vogue’s April issue is devoted to stylish women of all body types and features.

“It was not a problem finding clothes. We pulled from resources we normally cover that’s what we’re really trying to show,” explains Anna Wintour, editor in chief.

Watching the waist

After several seasons of formfitting silhouettes and waistbands that dropped as low as they could possible go, designers are returning to looser garments and have rediscovered the natural waist.

But, warns Singer, while these styles might sound ideal for plus-size, curvy or pear-shaped women, the reality of wearing them might be different.

On the other hand, full skirts, which many women shy away from because they fear they will emphasize their hips, deserve another look.

The key to the full skirt is choosing the right top, according to Singer.

A curvy woman should play up her waist with a fitted-but-not-tight top that will enhance her hourglass shape without showing too much cleavage, she advises. A pear-shaped woman might try an A-line, full skirt with a slim-cut top that will broaden the appearance of her shoulders and create a more defined waist, maybe even a bustier-style top or jacket.

Singer says Jennifer Lopez, a true pear-shaped woman, knows how to dress for her body type. “You’ve got to believe in your assets like J.Lo,” she says.

This season’s shrunken jackets also are figure friendly but, again, what they are paired with is important. If the jacket is short and hugs the body, Singer suggests wearing either an A-line or bias-cut skirt.

“Always consider a bias cut they’re flattering to everyone,” she says.

Color choices

White is spring’s hottest hue but it can be difficult to wear. For a curvy or plus-size woman, white pants look best with a contrasting color top that covers the hips, says Sally Singer. White on white is tough unless the wearer is very slender or has an athletic build, she says.

A tall woman might have some trouble finding clothes that complement her lengthy frame.

She should wear garments with several points of interest to break up the body, Singer says. A monochromatic head-to-toe look, for instance, is like a flattering body stocking for many women but will make a tall woman just look taller. Instead, she suggests layers and interesting neck, waist and hemlines and maybe a coat to pull together what might sound like a disparate outfit.

Fitting the form

Women with a boyish figure shouldn’t give up their low-slung pants just yet because they add curves that don’t naturally exist, and women with very wide hips also look best in hipster pants because they blur the line between the waist and hips.

“It will take time to adjust to seeing the natural-waist pants again. You really need a flat waist and a good butt,” Singer says.

Even skinny women, who get little sympathy from their peers, have difficulty finding clothes that fit, especially if they are short. Very thin women are easily overwhelmed by their clothes. Singer suggests they stick to minimal frills, small prints and shorter hemlines.

Women with an athletic build should choose garments that allow for some movement, she notes, instead of looking tight over taut muscles. Singer suggests a shorter skirt, which will show off an athlete’s toned legs, with a big jacket.

She also recommends women with muscular legs wear a substantial high-heel shoe. Short women should choose flats or a delicate heel.

Singer’s No. 1 shopping tip is to bring the appropriate shoes.

Try on a whole head-to-toe outfit to get a sense of the overall look, she says, and never go shopping when you’re under pressure to find the perfect dress for a wedding or high school reunion the following weekend.

Her last bit of advice is to find a few designers or labels that fit your shape well and then test the trends with their garments.