New York ? There’s good news for the man who likes to get dressed without a fuss.

Tommy Hilfiger, Kenneth Cole and the Perry Ellis label launched New York Fashion Week with a parade of wearable, basic clothes. The theme of clothes for real men was echoed throughout many of the menswear presentations for fall 2002.

Sweaters, many of them cardigans updated with a zip front; corduroy pants; and suits made of soft, plush fabrics ruled the runway in an autumnal palette of orange, brown, camel, dark green and a deep-rose color that Cole calls “quartz.”

In a sign of the times, nautical pea coats, sailor looks and military-style distressed leather also were popular.

“When I started, I wanted to focus on functionality,” said David Chu, designer and founder of Nautica. “The military is a good source for that.”

His newest version of an olive wool-flannel Eisenhower jacket is actually the silhouette of a modern denim jacket, Chu said, but the traditional fabric and color give it a ’50s “Ike” look.

“The idea here is ruggedness but also really luxurious,” said Chu, who uses nubuck leather to add softness and volume to a parka and moleskin, which also feels soft but acts as a wind shield, for a navy four-button sport coat.

“The season is all about contrast,” he said.

Hilfiger decided to mix things up for fall 2002, pairing suits with athletic-style sweaters. He also offered his signature collegiate preppy look of rugby-striped shirts, flannel shirts, track suits and wool vests, which he said were inspired by a weekend in the country in New England.

“The intention is you put them on Friday night and don’t take them off until Sunday,” he said.

While Hilfiger has always featured lots of red, white and blue in his collections, the emphasis for fall is on white, once considered taboo after Labor Day.

White, the color of summer yachting, is also the color of winter skiing, said Hilfiger. “The rule books have changed completely.

“We’re wearing dressy with casual, we’re wearing white all year. The point is how to get comfortable with a new twist.”

Cole, who usually favors very sleek urban styles, offered rugged suede pants, shearling coats, lots of rough corduroy and thick leather belts worn over sweaters.

Perry Ellis used real men for the label’s “real-man look.” Mixed among models wearing henley shirts and cable sweaters were architects, restaurateurs, writers and menswear designer Gene Meyer.

Suits, including a three-button black velvet version and an olive velvet pea coat with matching olive velvet piped trousers, were standouts.

Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week was launched Feb. 15 at the tents in Bryant Park in midtown Manhattan. About one-third of the 100 men’s and women’s collections were to be shown at the tents during the eight-day event, organized by 7th on Sixth and designed for retailers and the fashion media.

Fashion Week was cut short last season because of the Sept. 11 terrorist attacks.

The women’s collections to be previewed include Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Oscar de la Renta, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs.

Donna Karan, who presents men’s and women’s collections, predicted men will “pull it together” for fall and return to suits without frills. She also embraced soft textures, and her collection was almost entirely black and a deep blue.

She said she created the line with the New York man in mind; someone savvy, strong, sophisticated and cool.

Will the New York look resonate with men throughout the country?

“Well, I’m very interested in this man and other women are interested in this man so, yes.”