When the ground turns white, the brews go dark.

It’s time for bracing, malty wintry ales. And there are plenty of very good choices, most at $12 or less for a six-pack.

The label for Wachusett Winter Ale depicts holly and a horse-drawn sled. This Scotch ale from Westminster, Mass., delivers a slightly smoky, balanced and rich brew with plenty of malty character.

Weyerbacher Winter Ale, a dark amber brew from Pennsylvania, has an undercurrent of spice and considerable sweetness. Very smooth.

From upstate New York, Southern Tier Old Man Winter Ale is typically first-class, with a tangy, citrus note and floral qualities, as well as a dry finish. It’s 8 percent alcohol by volume. Sip.

Portland, Maine, brings you Geary’s Winter Ale, heady with malt, spice, a hoppy finish and creamy texture. It’s a lighter hue and approach but 6 percent alcohol by volume.

Flying Dog K-9 Cruiser Winter Ale bills itself as “the psycho in the pack.” And it does make an impression: smooth, sweet, malty, with a reddish hue. Easy to enjoy. Flying Dog brews in Maryland.

Dependably fine: Stoudt’s Winter Ale, a lush production from Pennsylvania brewed with cocoa, which provides a distinctive, chocolaty accent. Hints of caramel, too, go with the roasty malt.