D.C. chef serves modern Passover cuisine

Stuffed Potatoes and Beets in Tamarind Sauce can be prepared with lamb or beef.

In many ways, the dishes that Israeli-born Vered Guttman will make for Passover represent the essence of her country’s most modern cuisine, which is to say they are eclectic and evolutionary. Her carefully trimmed lamb shanks will simmer into tenderness amid root vegetables, fruit juices, wine and date molasses; a tangy tilapia and grapefruit seviche will stand in for old-school gefilte fish; side dishes will include a variety of crunchy, lightly dressed salads; and her simple desserts will meld European and Mediterranean tastes.

For the Jewish holiday that starts at sundown today, Guttman and her family won’t be hosting a Seder meal at their D.C. home because they have been invited to the home of good friends. But she will be cooking for dozens this weekend just the same as the sole force behind her catering business, Cardamom and Mint.

“My influences are representative of the Israeli melting pot,” Guttman, 39, says with understatement. “My father is from Baghdad, my mother was born in Israel. My grandmother’s Polish. And I like to cook regional foods from the Middle East that have bold flavors and fresh ingredients. That is what’s happening in the Tel Aviv food scene, too.”

Here are some of Guttman’s recipe ideas for Passover.

Stuffed potatoes & beets in tamarind sauce

4 medium beets with their greens, peeled and trimmed flat on tops and bottoms; reserve beet greens and stems

1 1/2 to 2 large onions, finely grated (about 3 cups; if using a food processor, squeeze out excess liquid)

1 pound lean ground sirloin or lamb

4 tablespoons matzo meal

1/2 small red (Thai) pepper, unseeded and cut crosswise into thin slices (about 1 tablespoon; optional)

4 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons canola oil

3 cups low-sodium or homemade chicken broth

4 heaping tablespoons tamarind paste

Juice from 1 1/2 large lemons (less than 1/3 cup)

2 tablespoons honey

13 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and trimmed flat on the tops and bottoms

Wash the greens from 3 of the beets and cut them away from the stems; reserve the stems. Boil the greens for 2 minutes in a medium saucepan of lightly salted boiling water over high heat; then drain and pat dry.

Cut the stems into small pieces and set aside. Coarsely chop the greens and place in a large mixing bowl, along with the onions, the (uncooked) ground meat, matzo meal, red pepper, if desired, and the garlic, to form a filling. Taste and add salt as needed.

Heat the oil in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the reserved stems and cook for a few minutes until they have softened. Add the chicken broth, tamarind paste, lemon juice and honey, stirring to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil, then remove from the heat. Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary; it should be well-salted. Meanwhile, use a melon baller to scoop out the insides of the potatoes and beets to create openings large enough to fill with a few tablespoons of the meat stuffing; reserve the potato and beet bits. Arrange the scooped-out potatoes and beets so that they fit snugly in a large skillet. Fill in any gaps with the bits that were scooped out.

Spoon the filling into the potato and beet cavities, creating generous mounds (the meat shrinks during cooking); place any remaining filling around the skillet. Spoon all of the sauce over the filled potatoes and beets. Place the skillet over medium-high heat just until the sauce comes to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low, cover tightly with aluminum foil and then a lid, and cook for 1 1/2 hours, basting with the sauce every 30 minutes, until the vegetables are tender. Serves 8.

Tilapia & red grapefruit seviche

2 large red grapefruit, peeled and cut into sections

1 pound skinless tilapia fillets, cut into small pieces

Juice of 1 1/2 large lemons (less than 1/3 cup)

1 tablespoon anise-flavored liqueur, such as arak*

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 to 4 tablespoons olive oil, plus more for garnish

Leaves from 2 sprigs oregano

1/4 to 1/2 small red (Thai) pepper, seeded and cut crosswise into very thin slices

Fleur de sel (salt), for garnish

Arrange the grapefruit sections on individual plates. Scatter the pieces of fish among the fruit.

Combine the lemon juice, arak and salt in a measuring cup, stirring to mix well. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the plates, then drizzle the olive oil over the fish and fruit. Sprinkle with oregano and slices of red pepper to taste. Just before serving, drizzle lightly with olive oil and sprinkle with fleur de sel to taste. Serves 6.

Note: Arak is an anise-flavored liqueur found in many Middle Eastern markets; ouzo or Pernod may be substituted.

Fennel & Kohlrabi salad

3 medium kohlrabi, peeled (about 4 1/2 cups)

3 large bulbs fennel (about 3 cups), stalks and outer layers trimmed

1 bunch scallions, white and light-green parts, cut on the diagonal into 1/2-inch slices

Juice from 3 large lemons (at least 2/3 cup)

1/4 cup canola oil, preferably Mazola brand

Kosher salt

Cut the kohlrabi and fennel in half; discard the cores. Cut the halves into very thin slices and place in a large mixing bowl. Add the scallions, lemon juice and oil, mixing well to combine. Add the salt and taste; adjust accordingly. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Serves 6.