Local watering hole has international feel

The variety of local, national and international flavors that make Lawrence such an interesting and fun place have been beautifully blended at one of downtown’s newest establishments. The Global Cafe, 822 Mass., opened its doors in July. It offers espresso, coffee, tea and a varied menu daily from 7:30 a.m.

Jack Cronemeyer, whose work can also be seen at Zen Zero and Genovese, transformed the cafe’s interior. The design and colors echo the Southwest tradition with a modernized, international feel. Recycled metal and wood from an old barn on Cronemeyer’s property, Circle S Ranch, has been artistically integrated into the woodwork and adds to the ambience. I asked him how he would describe his style.

“That’s difficult,” he laughed.

“I spend time with the owners to discover what they’re aiming for and let the building itself communicate to me. I try to translate this into something that people can appreciate and enjoy.”

In this case, communicating with the owners was easy; they’re family. Jack’s daughter Kate and her husband, Rafael Gonzalez, own and operate the Cafe and the adjoining Kimbari, a tribal arts and home decor store. (Kimbari is an archaic Swahili word for tribal.) Rafael was born on Tenerife, an island off the northwest African coast. Shortly after his birth, his parents relocated to Venezuela, where his paternal grandparents owned farmland. After high school, Rafael studied electronics at the University of New Mexico in Albuquerque. He developed an interest in tribal arts and carpets and traveled extensively to learn about different cultures. He eventually opened a carpet and tribal art store in Taos, N.M. Meanwhile, Kate completed her degree in women’s studies at Kansas University and spent her summer in Taos, developing her love of photography. Her lens landed on Rafael. Their marriage and combined love of fun, international food and art led to the creation of the Cafe.

“A global cafe gives us an opportunity to experiment with new food and ingredients,” Rafael said. “Lawrence is such a great gathering place for people who are willing to try new things. We’ll keep adding new dishes.”

In addition to regular American breakfasts and salads, one can sample Tuscan, Cuban, Mediterranean, Italian and Asian foods. Rafael’s specialty is the arepa, a flat, cornbread cake that can be grilled, baked or fried, and filled like a traditional sandwich.

“It’s considered a national food in Venezuela,” he said.

It took Kate some time to share his passion for this food.

“It was an acquired taste,” she said, grinning.

Grant Clowers, a consultant and trainer at KU’s Office of Mental Health and Research Training, took to the arepa more quickly. He enjoyed one as we chatted, and he’s recommended it, and the cafe, to others.

The cafe’s logo emphasizes the owners’ commitment to provide great coffee and tea. Kate replaced the “o” in “Global” with an image of a steaming cup of coffee hovering over a world globe.

Jeff Johansen, who graduated from KU with a degree in environmental studies, is one of the baristas. He’s passionate about his work.

“I love making coffee and creating special, personalized drinks for our customers. People have different preferences. I try to create what they want.”

He did exactly this for Kate Nelson and her mom Jan, from Wichita. They spent a few days in Lawrence checking out KU and the School of Education, where Kate hopes to study. They were impressed with the atmosphere on campus, the cosmopolitan feel of Lawrence in general and downtown in particular.

“Everyone’s been friendly and helpful,” they chorused.

They gave Jeff top marks for his coffee-making skills and promised to return.

Jeff’s expertise didn’t end with the coffee. When I requested organic breakfast tea, he served a teabag in a ceramic teapot with additional hot water and whole milk. I sipped tea and drank in the local and international flavor of the cafe, including the flags of various European countries, and photographs and paintings by local artists David Bartholomew, Joan Clark and Paula O’Callaghan.

The Global Cafe is a fun, interesting place to have a good beverage and international food in pleasant, artistic surroundings. I’ve been back several times, and I’ve enjoyed my visits.

Ambience: 5

Service: 5

Coffee: 5

Tea: 4