Mideast drinks deliver frosty, refreshing effect on hot day

A summer staple in Iran, Dugh can help beat the heat. Consider sunflower seeds, another Middle East staple, for an accompanying snack.

Dugh has a base of yogurt and spring water or club soda. See the recipe elsewhere on this page.

Summer snacks from the MidEast

Some favorite summer snack foods from the Middle East:

  • Fresh mulberries are popular throughout the Middle East. The soft, white variety of the berry is mildly sweet, while the purple variety has a deep, earthy flavor.
  • A common street food in Iran is corn, grilled on coals and dipped in a salty brine.
  • Unripened plums and almonds are eaten with salt when they are green and crisp. The almonds look like small, green peaches and have a soft, white, gooey center. The plums are sour and half their ripened size.
  • Fresh walnuts are soaked in saltwater to make them easy to peel, and their soft, white flesh is eaten.
  • Melon, pumpkin and sunflower seeds.

Hoping to beat the heat with a cool drink? For real refreshment, skip the soda and think yogurt or rosewater. Maybe even a cup of piping hot tea.

Westerners, always looking for the next big thing in beverages, could probably take a lesson from the Middle East. With summer temperatures from Tehran to Cairo reaching well into the triple digits, the art of the cooling drink is a source of pride – and self-preservation – in many Middle Eastern homes.

Each region has its favorites worth checking out when that carbonated beverage you usually reach for leaves you cold – but not in the way you had hoped.

Start with rosewater, water in which rose petals have been steeped, as an easy way to dress up regular tap or bottled water. The floral taste is reminiscent of the smell that fills your lungs when you inhale deeply from a rose in full bloom. Common to many Persian and Arab homes, rosewater is probably the most ubiquitously available item in Middle Eastern groceries.

“Rosewater is something that’s always there in our foods and beverages,” says May Bsisu, author of “The Arab Table: Recipes and Culinary Traditions. “Many times, we add it to the drinking water to make it more refreshing. In the olden days it was very valuable, and when you had special guests and served them this to drink, it meant that you were honoring your guests.”

In Iran, a sweet-and-sour syrup made with vinegar, sugar and fresh mint (called sharbat-e sekanjebin) is mixed with water and grated cucumber, then served over ice. The result is a crunchy, refreshing beverage – and as many Iranian mothers have told their Iranian-American children: before there was Sprite, there was sekanjebin.

Chilled, savory yogurt drinks also are popular throughout the Middle East.

“Nothing beats a wonderful cold yogurt soup, an abdugh khiar, served with fresh herbs, cucumbers, raisins, nuts, rose petals and some ice cubes floating around in it,” says Najmieh Batmanglij, an Iranian food writer who has written several books about traditional Iranian cooking.

Arabs enjoy a version called ayran that uses goat’s milk yogurt.

“The thicker the yogurt, the nicer the taste is,” says Bsisu. “You can do it with fat-free yogurt, but it won’t taste as good as full fat. And the goat’s yogurt is a bit sour, mixed with salt and fresh mint leaves it’s something you can buy on the street in summer in Arab cities.”

Middle Eastern beverage traditions have their roots in a culture of hospitality. Many devout Muslims believe they must never let a thirsty person pass their door without offering them water.

“Even in the olden days, in Kuwait and the Gulf States they would always have some cool water for passers-by that they kept in big clay pots at the gates of their houses,” Bsisu says.

“They would usually have a metal cup tied to the pot with a string for passers by to drink from,” she says.

Many Middle Easterners also believe their cuisines capitalize on an age-old culinary alchemy designed to beat the heat.

“Offering hot tea with sweets to guests, without asking, is a very Persian form of hospitality,” Batmanglij says. “It is believed that drinking hot tea in the summer has a cooling effect.”

Hot teas, brewed with mint or cardamom or other aromatics, are consumed year round in the Middle East, and many believe this is the best way to stay cool and hydrated during the hot summer months.

“Nobody would think that hot tea will cool you down, but it does,” Bsisu said.

But Western food scientists say that commonly held belief doesn’t hold water – or tea.

“I’m aware of the lore around drinking something hot when it’s hot out and how that is supposed to cool you,” says Jennifer Sacheck, an assistant professor of nutrition at Tufts’ Friedman School of Nutrition.

She says the idea is that by consuming hot tea, sweat production will increase and the body’s core temperature will be lowered.

“But in reality the body is not going to be able to counteract the amount of heat that you drink and take in through sweating,” Sacheck says. “It has a lot to do with the placebo effect, if people believe it makes them feel good, it catches on and becomes lore.”

Middle Eastern Drinks

Dugh(Pronounced “doo-gh”)

  • 1 cup whole-milk yogurt
  • 1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint (or a dash of dried mint, crushed)
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 1/2 cups club soda or spring water, chilled

In a small bowl, whisk the yogurt for about a minute, then transfer to a pitcher. Add the mint, salt and pepper, then stir well.

While stirring, slowly pour in the club soda. Add 3 to 4 ice cubes and stir again. Chill before serving.

SHARBAT-E sekanjebinPronounced “shar-bat-eh SEK-an-je-bean”

This vinegar syrup is sweetened until all hint of sourness is gone, then coupled with cucumber and mint, and served ice-cold. Try dipping lettuce leaves into the syrup instead of mixing it with water for a crunchy, refreshing summer snack.

  • 6 cups sugar
  • 2 cups water
  • 1 1/2 cups white wine vinegar
  • 4 sprigs fresh mint, plus additional for garnish
  • 1 cucumber, peeled, seeded and grated
  • 1 lime, for serving

In a saucepan, bring sugar and water to a boil. Reduce heat to simmer for 10 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally until the sugar has thoroughly dissolved.

Add vinegar, increase heat to medium-high and bring to a boil. Boil for 15 to 20 minutes, or until the liquid reduces to a thick syrup. Remove the saucepan from heat.

Add clean, dry mint sprigs to syrup. Allow to cool. Remove the mint.

In a pitcher, mix 1 part syrup, 3 parts water and 2 ice cubes per person. Add cucumber and stir well. Pour into individual glasses and garnish with a slice of lime and a sprig of fresh mint. Serve well-chilled.

Excess syrup can be refrigerated in a tightly sealed bottle.

– Recipes from Najmieh Batmanglij’s “New Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies”