The microwave oven, that space-age miracle of kitchen technology, is now 50 years old. Today’s models are far more versatile than their predecessors, but the fact is that they still can’t do everything. All these years later, the microwave remains best at basic tasks, such as reheating.

Virtually all of the 53 ovens we recently rated could at least do that well. Most, in fact, earned a “very good” in our performance tests and convenience assessments. The models we recommend additionally delivered notable strengths and value.

Among midsized and large countertop microwaves, we liked the Kenmore 6325 (at $110, from Sears, it’s a CR Best Buy) and three GE models: the Profile JES2251S ($220), the JE1860 ($165) and the JE1460 ($130, also a CR BestBuy). All were relatively easy to use. At 0.9 cubic feet of actual cooking space, the Kenmore is the smallest of the four and excelled in our defrost test, which measured how completely and evenly the oven’s program thawed 1 pound of frozen ground beef. The GE Profile JES2251S also was an excellent defroster and – at an actual 1.5 cubic feet of cooking space – the largest of the bunch. The GE JE1860, with 1.2 cubic feet of actual capacity, was one of the few countertop models with a turntable on/off switch. This lets you use more interior space by switching off the turntable for larger plates.

We also tested several over-the-range microwaves. Generally more expensive than countertop models, these ovens save space, but have to be installed and are not as good as the range hoods they replace at venting steam and smoke. Three models stood out: the top-rated Whirlpool Gold GH4155XP ($43O), the Samsung SMH7178 ($350) and the Panasonic Genius NN-H264 ($300). The Samsung and Panasonic combine relatively low prices with high performance to earn them distinction as CR Best Buys.

Most of our tested ovens have a sensor. This useful feature helps prevent over- or undercooking by detecting when food is done. Other microwave features that make an oven more versatile and easier to use include convection mode, which maximizes browning and crisping with heated air circulated by a fan, and displayed power level, to assist in multistage cooking.

Other newer features found on microwaves, meanwhile, add little value. For instance: We tested a few models that had a “grill” or “brown” mode, but none produced wonderful results. One cooked steak and chicken pieces until their interiors were juicy, but their outsides remained lightly browned or gray.