Liechtenstein packs in scenery, tranquility

? Liechtenstein is so small that the whole state can be hired for corporate events and the entire population is invited to drinks at the royal castle on the national holiday.

The capital doesn’t have a railway station, let alone an airport, and a nationwide tour takes just two hours.

And yet the handkerchief-sized country — 15 miles long and less than 8 miles wide — offers stunning views, breathtaking mountain hikes and absolute tranquility alongside exclusive stores, top-notch cultural attractions and gourmet cuisine.

“The main problem is to make people aware that Liechtenstein exists and is worth a visit,” says tourist director Roland Buechel, who has devised a campaign promising “princely moments” to entice outsiders.

Prince Hans-Adam II — a charming but controversial monarch who won a referendum in March to change the constitution and give himself even greater powers — has thrown his weight behind the campaign’s play on the royal title.

Little Liechtenstein -- at 15 miles long and less than 8 miles wide -- packs in stunning views and breathtaking mountain hikes alongside exclusive stores, top-notch cultural attractions and gourmet cuisine. The Castle of Vaduz sits on a mountainside.

Photos of the prince and his wife, Princess Marie, adorn every souvenir kiosk, but casual visitors are unlikely to meet him in person — although he does occasionally cycle down the winding mountain road into Vaduz.

The 13th-century royal castle that towers above Vaduz is strictly off-limits to tourists because the prince and his family — he has four adult children and a constantly growing number of grandchildren — live there and fiercely guard their privacy. The family’s coat of arms flutters on a flagpole when it is in residence.

But even so, anybody who happens to be in Liechtenstein on Aug. 15 — the national day — is welcome to join the 33,000-strong population invited for drinks and snacks with the royal family in the imposing castle gardens and to admire the magnificent fireworks display in the evening.

Fine wines from the princely estate can be bought year-round at the Hofkellerei (royal wine cellars), as billionaire Hans-Adam has a keen nose — not just for fruity pinot noir, but also for making money.

Aside from the royal castle, the most striking feature of Liechtenstein is the sheer number of banks and trust companies that lurk down even secluded lanes. Thanks to its reputation as a tax haven, Liechtenstein has seen an explosion in the number of financial institutions in recent years.

A woman crosses a pedestrian-only street in Vaduz, Liechtenstein. There are lovely walks in most parts of Liechtenstein -- traffic is light and there is no pollution.

Ambitious building projects have transformed sleepy Vaduz. A new four-star hotel is being built in the center, right next to the Restaurant Real, whose reputation for fine cuisine extends far beyond national borders.

Prince Hans-Adam II of Liechtenstein raises his glass during an Aug. 15 national day gathering in the garden of Vaduz Castle.

The capital, affectionately known as Staedtle (minitown), now also claims its own “culture mile” of galleries and museums.

Above the tourist office — which obligingly puts the Liechtenstein stamp in passports for a nominal fee of $1.50 — is a stamp museum in recognition of the fact that this used to be the country’s major source of income. The national museum is being renovated and extended — intriguingly into the cliff wall — and there’s a ski museum that is a favorite with winter sports fans.

The jewel in the crown is the Kunstmuseum (art museum), a sleek and airy creation that sends devotees of architecture and fine art alike into raptures. Opened in November 2000, it contains a striking mix of modern artists such as Andy Warhol and Old Masters from the prince’s priceless collection.

Away from the bustle (blink and you’ll miss it) of Vaduz lie other attractions.

The mountain resort of Malbun offers carefree family skiing holidays in winter and lovely summer walks. The restaurant Galina offers daily displays with birds of prey in summer.

In an unconventional attempt to bring in extra visitors, the tourist board has produced Rent-a-State, offering corporations the opportunity to use the infrastructure of the entire state as an alternative to the more routine convention center.