Description: Has long, thin tender, dark green leaves and a sweet aromatic flavor, combining elements of fennel, anise and licorice.

Purchasing: Look for fresh tarragon, which is best in late spring. If you use dried, make sure its color and aroma haven’t faded.

Storage: Freezes easily, so keep in warmest part of refrigerator (generally on the top shelf), or place in a vase of water.

Uses: Works well with chicken, egg and mushroom dishes. Also used to flavor tartar sauce and white wine vinegar.

Chicken breasts in tarragon cream

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1 1/2 pounds)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small shallot, finely chopped (about 3 tablespoons)

1/4 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine

3/4 cup heavy cream

2 to 3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh French tarragon

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Season both sides of the chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a large (10- to 12-inch) skillet over medium-high heat. Using tongs, carefully lower the chicken breasts into the pan and cook them for about 1 minute on each side, just until they begin to brown slightly. Transfer the still-raw chicken to a plate.

Reduce the heat under the skillet to low. Add the shallot and cook, stirring constantly, until softened but not browned, less than 1 minute. Add the vermouth and cook for 30 seconds, then add the cream and half of the tarragon. Return the chicken breasts to the pan and adjust the heat so that the cream gently simmers. Cover and cook until the chicken is firm and just cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes. To check for doneness, cut into the thickest part of a breast with a paring knife; there should be no sign of pink or translucence.

Transfer the chicken breasts to a warmed serving platter or individual dinner plates. The sauce should be thick enough to lightly coat a spoon. If it is too thin, continue to simmer it for about 1 minute and it will thicken. Stir in the remaining tarragon and the lemon juice, then taste and season with additional salt and pepper if needed. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve right away with buttered egg noodles.

Source: “The Herbfarm Cookbook,” by Jerry Traunfeld