Amazing acrobatic antics of eastern gray tree squirrels — up the tree, across the power line, over the roof and into a hole they chewed in the attic — can amuse gardeners for hours — except when their behavior turns destructive.

Although they are cute, furry and gardeners love to feed them, sometimes the mischievous rodents damage property and possessions.

Here are some options for controlling an overpopulation of squirrels on your house or in your home:

Gray tree squirrels live in various habitats. Although they prefer hardwood and pine tree forests, they can find safe haven in old structures, dead trees and other nondesirable locations, such as the attic of a home. They feed on acorns, hickory nuts, walnuts and osage orange fruits. They survive the winter by eating tree buds. In the spring and summer, they eat succulent plant materials such as bulbs, perennials, fungi, corn, berries and fruits when available. When food is scarce, they chew on tree bark, insects and other animal matter. Basically, they eat about anything that does not run away.

They breed in January and June. This is important because these are the times of year that squirrels create new habitat. Usually this takes place in dead tree limbs and other nonproblematic areas. However, nesting can take place in attics, garages, infrequently used automobiles and other unwanted locations. So that cute fuzzy guest can end up costing homeowners hundreds of dollars in damages.

Unfortunately, nesting in homes is a learned behavior. And getting the intruder to vacate is difficult because he has to be “unlearned” or discouraged to the point of leaving.

This is easier said than done.

Various commercial products are available on the market to discourage squirrel invasions. Many do not work, and those that do are only effective for a short time. Another solution is to try bright lights and loud noises in the attic. Sometimes that’s enough to disrupt squirrels’ lives.

The next option is exclusion. If possible, use heavy gauge, half-inch mesh wire to protect soffits, eaves and other vulnerable areas. Keep in mind, once they find a way in, they will work hard to find a way in again. Minimize access by trimming tree branches that hang over the house. Remember, squirrels can jump as far as 12 feet from tree to tree, or tree to roof, to gain access.

Likewise, the use of sticky tack, such as “tanglefoot,” on downspouts and other structures squirrels use to climb on may give some temporary relief. These products are messy, and the cure may be worse than the cause.

That leaves trapping. There are two options when it comes to trapping nuisance wildlife: live and nonlive traps. To use a live trap, such as box trap, tie the trap door open for a day or two. Once the animal is used to feeding, set the trap. Check the trap at least twice daily. Good baits to use are orange and apple slices, walnuts, pecans and peanut butter. To be effective, trapped squirrels must be relocated at least 10 to 12 miles away.

Unfortunately, this seemingly humane method of dealing with squirrels may not be the best for them in the long run. Squirrels are very territorial and rely on experience for knowing where to find food, shelter and water. For an effective at relocation, the animals must be taken out of their territory. This means they no longer know where to find food, shelter and water. Plus, they’re not familiar with predator populations or rival dominant squirrels. “Humane” relocation usually results in long, slow death.

The most humane way of dealing with squirrels that have taken up residency in your residence is terminal. There are two types of traps that are fast and painless: rat and squirrel snap-traps, and conibear-type snap-traps. Both can be found at outdoor outfitter-type retailers and online. Place the trap in a wooden box that measures 6 inches wide by 6 inches tall and is 12 inches deep. You can also use a 12-inch section of 8-inch drain tube. This makes the trap highly effective and discreet from neighbors and children.