Dodge City still provides glimpse of Old West

? It’s a scene familiar to “Gunsmoke” fans — Marshal Dillon faces the gunslinger in the middle of a Dodge City street. Guns are drawn, shots are fired.

Dillon wins, and another show begins about life in Old West Dodge City, or at least the Hollywood version.

But to find what life was really like in the Old West, spend some time where the likes of Bat Masterson and Doc Holliday really did walk the streets.

“We like to attract visitors with the romance of the Old West and show them the real history of what Dodge City and the Old West was like,” said Andy Stanton, director of the Dodge City Convention and Visitors Bureau.

Many of the 100,000 visitors each year arrive with a preconceived idea of what the west Kansas town should be. They come from just about every state and many foreign counties, particularly Germany and the United Kingdom.

“It’s amazing. People are disappointed that the streets aren’t dirt and we don’t ride horses to work. But when they see there is a lot of history, they’re surprised by all that’s here,” Stanton said.

In its Old West heyday, Dodge City gained fame as a buffalo hunter’s trade center and then as a cowtown — some say a lawless cowtown. Cattle were driven from Texas on the Western Trail for railroad shipment back East. The town still thrives on meatpacking plants and feedlots where on any given day visitors can see all the cattle they want.

One attraction is the Boot Hill Museum that includes an 1876 replica of Front Street, based on journals and photographs of the time. During the summer, visitors can ride a stage coach, see gunfight re-enactments or watch a variety show at the Long Branch Saloon.

Founded in 1947, the museum has 11,000 artifacts on display out of 28,000 it has gathered through the years from around Dodge City.

Dressed in a period costume, Barry Metcalf waits to greet visitors at the Boot Hill Museum in Dodge City. The museum, housed in an 1876 replica of the town's Front Street, has 11,000 artifacts on display about Dodge City's Old West heritage.

Exhibits include a collection of old pistols, rifles and shotguns, including one used in 1873 to kill Ellsworth County Sheriff Chauncy Whitney, one of the first lawmen killed in Kansas.

On a wall hangs a collection of signatures of scores of Dodge City notables, including Wyatt Earp, Luke Short and Bill Tilghman.

The inside of old stores is replicated, complete with furnishings, in what almost seems like trip back in time. The hardware store includes tools and nails used back then, and the print shop has a press and type that Earp would recognize. There’s also replicas of a saloon with a gambling table and bar and a period bank with the wooden counter and iron safe.

“It takes you back to relive the legend. We’re trying to preserve the history for the public. We love to entertain people but our main purpose is protecting that history,” said Gloria Barngrover, the museum’s general manager.

While the characters were fictional, “Gunsmoke” did make Dodge City known to just about every American household.

Killed in a drunken brawl, Edward Hurley is remembered by a wooden marker at the old cemetery at the Boot Hill Museum in Dodge City. The cemetery was closed in 1879, and the remains buried there were moved to a new cemetery.

The museum pays tribute to the show with a display including furniture from the 1960s and an old television tuned to the show. On the walls are numerous signed photographs from the show’s actors and other memorabilia.

“The ‘Gunsmoke’ exhibit is a big attraction. Dodge City has a lot of history, but ‘Gunsmoke’ brought it into their living rooms,” Barngrover said.

Barngrover said she actually got questions from people about Matt Dillon, Miss Kitty and the other characters.

“They don’t separate the fictional from the real life. Some thought they were real people from the past,” she said. “We’ve had people call and ask if Matt Dillon still had relatives in town.”

There’s a section of the old Boot Hill Cemetery where visitors can walk and read reproduced grave markers with actual epitaphs. It served as a cemetery for about six years before the bodies were moved in 1879 because the land was needed for the expanding town.

Also on display is an old one-room schoolhouse, a Victorian house built in 1878 and filled with period furnishings, and a blacksmith shop where a smith works during the summer showing how it was done back then.

Fort Dodge is five miles east of town. Built in 1865, it’s now a home for retired veterans and has a self-guided walking tour and a library-museum. Nine miles west of town is the Santa Fe Trail where deep swales caused by the constant use of wagons still are visible and the wind still blows across the prairie.

¢ Dodge City was named for Fort Dodge which was established in 1865 to protect travelers on the Santa Fe Trail. The post closed in 1882 and became the Kansas State Soldier’s Home in 1890, which remains in operation.¢ Dodge City was founded in 1872, about the time the railroad arrived. The town was five miles west of the fort. The first business was a bar.¢ Dodge City originally was named Buffalo City, but that name was rejected by postal officials because another Kansas town already had it. An estimated 850,000 buffalo hides were shipped from Dodge City from 1872 to 1874.¢ By 1875, the buffalo herds were gone as source of revenue, but Texas cattle soon brought money to town. From 1875 to 1886, more than 5 million cattle were driven on the Western Trail to Dodge City.¢ After the buffalo herds were killed, farmers during hard times gathered the bones and sold them for $6 to $8 per ton. The bones were used to make china or fertilizer.¢ Boot Hill Cemetery was used for burying drifters and unknowns from 1872 until 1879. One woman was buried there. The bodies were moved to make room for houses and a school.¢ Dodge City has had a variety of nicknames: “Queen of the Cowtowns,” “Buffalo Capital of the World,” “Cowboy Capital,” “Wickedest Little City in America.”¢ Many Old West legends on both sides of the law lived in Dodge City, including Bat Masterson, Wyatt Earp, Doc Holliday, Luke Short, Ben Thompson, Bill Tilghman and Charlie Bassett.¢ Dodge City had two Front Streets, one on either side of the railroad tracks. The south side was wide open, but guns couldn’t be worn north of the tracks.¢ The first recorded killing in Dodge City was in September 1872 when a man was shot by a gambler. In that year, some 15 men were killed in Dodge City, all being buried in Boot Hill.Source: Ford County Historical Society, Kansas Heritage Center, Dodge City Convention and Visitors Bureau.