Pastry chef recommends gift of love — chocolate

? What can explain the delicious link between chocolate and love?

“There is no research showing any food is actually an aphrodisiac,” said Alexandra Logue, author of “The Psychology of Eating and Drinking.”

However, there is one food with intriguing associations: chocolate.

“It has a complex aroma, is sweet and high in fat, is calorically dense, melts at body temperature and has a smooth texture,” Logue said. “Studies show it contains chemicals like those in red wine that reduce cardiac risk. So it’s good for the heart, metaphysically and physically.”

For a Valentine’s meal, “I recommend chocolate.”

So does Lori Fortunato, a pastry chef in Old Westbury, N.Y. Fortunato describes chocolate as her true love and passion. She uses about four pounds a day. Among the recipes that she has created, pumpkin chocolate cheesecake is her favorite.

Pumpkin Chocolate Cheesecake

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For the Graham Cracker Crust:
1 1/2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup granulated sugar
6 tablespoons butter, melted

Mix graham cracker crumbs and sugar together. Blend in melted butter. Press into a 9-inch springform pan. Set aside.

For the Pumpkin Cheesecake:
24 ounces cream cheese, softened
3/4 cup light brown sugar
3/4 cup granulated sugar
5 large eggs
16 ounces solid pack pumpkin, canned
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cloves
1/4 teaspoon allspice
1/2 cup heavy cream

Pastry chef Lori Fortunato serves a slice of a Chocolate Pumpkin Cheesecake in the kitchen of the de Seversky Center campus of the New York Institute of Technology, Old Westbury, N.Y. Fortunato said the recipe is one of her favorites.

Beat cream cheese until smooth. Add sugars and blend. Scrape bowl with a plastic spatula to avoid lumps. Add eggs, one at a time, blend in and scrape the bowl after each addition. Blend in pumpkin and spices. Blend in heavy cream. Pour mixture into prepared crust and bake at 325 degrees for 1 1/2 hours, or until center just sets. Cool. Chill.

For the Chocolate Mousse:
2 cups heavy cream
8 ounces semisweet chocolate
5 egg yolks
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 tablespoons water

Whip heavy cream to medium peak. Set aside. Melt chocolate over double boiler. Set aside. Whip yolks until pale. Boil sugar and water to 245 degrees. Pour the hot sugar into the yolks while whipping, and continue whipping to cool. Add 1/4 of the whipped cream to the cooled yolk mixture. Add the chocolate. Fold in the rest of the whipped cream. Pour on top of the pumpkin cheesecake and freeze for 24 hours.

For the Ganache:
1/2 cup heavy cream
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

In a small saucepot, bring the cream and butter to a boil. Pour over chopped chocolate, and stir until smooth. To serve, unmold the cheesecake and, while it is frozen, pour ganache over the top and let drizzle down the side. Refrigerate until serving time.

Makes 12 to 16 servings.