Pork with a low fat content can be a good companion for rich sauces, giving fat-conscious cooks the chance to create dishes that taste sinfully good.

This recipe, created by Shelley Wiseman for the Every Day feature in Gourmet magazine’s August issue, uses pork tenderloin.

The recipe’s barbecue sauce takes the summertime backyard favorite and adds an invigorating twist of ginger and chili. Add the smoky flavor from the grill and you have a filling, savory main course that belies its low-fat status.

Grilled Pork Kebabs With Ginger Molasses Barbecue Sauce

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For barbecue sauce:

6 tablespoons cider vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

2 tablespoons ketchup

1 1/2 tablespoons molasses (regular or robust; not blackstrap)

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon minced fresh serrano or other small hot green chili (1 or 2), including seeds

1/2 tablespoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1/2 teaspoon salt

For pork:

1 pound pork tenderloin, trimmed

1/4 teaspoon salt

Special equipment: About 30 8-inch wooden skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes.

To make barbecue sauce:

Stir together all sauce ingredients in a 1- to 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan and briskly simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced to about 1/2 cup, about 3 minutes. Transfer sauce to a medium bowl and cool to room temperature.

To prepare and grill pork kebabs:

Put tenderloin on a cutting board. Starting about 5 inches from narrow end of tenderloin and holding a large sharp knife at a 30-degree angle to cutting board, cut a thin slice (1/8 to 1/4 inch thick) from tenderloin, slicing diagonally toward narrow end and cutting through to cutting board. Continue to cut thin slices from tenderloin following same diagonal, starting each consecutive slice closer to wide end. (You will have about 12 slices. Cut any slices more than 2 inches wide in half lengthwise.)

Thread two skewers, one at a time and 1/2 to 1 inch apart, lengthwise through each slice of pork and transfer to a tray lined with plastic wrap.

If using a charcoal grill, open vents on bottom of grill, then light charcoal. Charcoal fire is hot when you can hold your hand 5 inches above rack for 1 to 2 seconds. If using a gas grill, preheat burners on high, covered, 10 minutes.

Sprinkle pork slices with salt and brush both sides with barbecue sauce, then grill on oiled grill rack, uncovered, turning over once, until just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes total. Discard any leftover sauce.

Makes 4 servings. Nutrition information per serving: 241 calories and 8 grams of fat.